Waterfire Haiti

haiti-001For the past decade I made an annual pilgrimage to Providence, RI on a summer evening to experience Waterfire, an art installation that sounds simplistic, setting fire to wood stacked in iron braziers anchored to the middle of the Providence River, yet oozes sensory satisfaction as the four primal elements mingle in close proximity. My first visit happened on a whim, a detour on the way home from a day at the beach.  I was transfixed by how the fires reflected in the waters dappled surface, how they cackled against the new age music, how they filled the night not only with their light but with their pungent aroma.

Waterfire is a miracle of man’s domination. Less than two hundred years ago Providence, like many other industrial cities, burned to the ground regularly. But we developed masonry construction and fire departments and sprinkler systems and now fire is a threat we control.  The arc of human development is always to encounter an adversary, study it, confront it, tame it, and, once we have achieved mastery, play with it.  As children, every one of us was warned against playing with fire, and conquering that prohibition draws us to Waterfire.

Each summer I checked the Waterfire schedule, which grew to include most weekends, and journeyed to Providence to stroll along the riverside, low against the nearby buildings, tight to the water and flames and pungent air.  The event remains singularly uncommercial despite growing more popular every year.  Last summer the crowd was so thick my strolling was reduced to inching along shoulder to shoulder with the throng.

This summer I bailed.  The group I planned to go with ballooned to a small crowd, they made reservations at an expensive Italian restaurant before taking in the fires.  What had been a reverie of air and earth and fire and water had become an extravaganza; I do not enjoy such excess.

But 2012 refused to die away without a rejuvenating fire on water.  Tonight, in the starry blackness of the Haitian night, I strolled down to the beach after an exhaustive day in Port-au-Prince and before me lay a string of ten dugout canoes stretched along a single line, a hundred or two hundred feet apart.  The only marker of each canoe was the tiny flame flickering as it tread its position on the sea.  I asked a passing native what they were doing off shore in the calm night.  Fishing, he replied, pointing to the nets anchored on the beach and stretching out to each boat. The invisible fishermen bobbed peacefully in anticipation of the sea bounty sure to get entangled by the web of nets they cast.

Waterfire Haiti is just as spellbinding as Waterfire Providence; the odd juxtaposition of flames surrounded by the element that extinguishes them inspires reverie and awe.  But if Providence speaks to mankind’s domination, Haiti speaks to our accommodation with nature.  Waterfire Haiti is not art, it is survival.  Launching onto the sea in the dark in order to obtain essential food is risky.  I only hope the men in their boats feel serenity tethered to the shore by their nets and tethered to each other by their feeble light. Perhaps they even appreciate the splendor that their tiny beacons add to the starry night.

Posted in Haiti | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Mission of Hope Sermon

haiti-001Lex and Renee invited me to speak at their church on the last Sunday of my regular visits to Haiti.  We are planning to move classes into the new school in January.  Even though I tried to use simple words for translation, Gama got tongue tied a few times; there are so many English words without Creole equivalents.

Bonjou, zami mwen.

I have asked Pastor Lex and Renee to inscribe this Bible verse on the wall of your new school.  The Gospel according to Luke, Chapter 6, Verse 48:

He is like a man building a house, who dug down deep and laid the foundation on rock. When a flood came, the torrent struck that house but could not shake it, because it was well built.

I have spent the past year living among you, working with you to create a house well built.  It is a large house, with many rooms, and even though it is not complete, we have built enough that is strong and good and we can begin to use it.  Over time we will finish this part, then add more rooms.  The building will never be completely finished.  It will change and grow old with us; for it is so sturdy it will outlive the youngest person here today.

Every person in this church today is a person with strong beliefs.  We hold many beliefs in common.  We believe in man’s ability to improve his lot here on earth.  We believe that when we work together we can create something greater than when we labor alone.  We believe in constructing our buildings strong.

Some of our beliefs are different.  You believe that Jesus Christ is the Son of God.   That is a powerful belief.  It is a belief that brings you peace and brings you strength; it helps you face the difficulties in life and be strong in the face of adversity.

There are more than seven billion people in this world and there are thousands of ways people believe in god.  Some practice religion, some do not.  Some find peace in their faith, and make peace with people of other faiths.  Some people insist their religion is the only true faith; and they use it as an excuse to go to war. I believe in every faith that celebrates peace and I reject every faith that champions war.

There are as many ways to worship god as there are different countries and different cultures and different personalities. There are Buddhists and Christians and Hindus and Muslims and Jews. And within each of these religions they are many sects.  Among Christians alone there are Methodists and Baptists and Catholics and Fundamentalists and Evangelicals and Lutherans. And among evangelicals there are many, many churches, each with inspired leaders.

 

You are lucky here at Mission of Hope because you have Lex Edme, a truly inspired leader.  He is a man of great faith as well as a man of great action.  He is firm in what he believes, he is unwavering in his devotion to Jesus, and he guides this congregation with a clear vision.

But Lex is not just a man of faith; he is a man of wisdom.  In his wisdom he knows that this congregation, this community, this Mission of Hope cannot reach its full potential by itself.  In order to provide the church and the school and the opportunities the people of Grand Goave so deserve, Lex knows he must reach out to other evangelicals, he must reach out to other Christians, he must reach out to other religions, he must even reach out to those who practice no religion, because there is so much to be done here, and so much worth doing, and Lex knows the world is full of people with talent and energy who want to lend their hand here.

I have known Lex for many years now.  I love him very much.  I am thankful for the opportunity he gave me to come to Grand Goave and work among you.  You are some of the finest people I have ever met and you have allowed me to do some of the finest work I have ever done.  Not every pastor has the strength and courage to invite a non-believer into his fold but Lex is a man of strength and courage and Mission of Hope has a new school because of his vision.

I do not know when I will return to Grand Goave, but I will return.  We will complete your building together.  I hope it will be a place where your faith in Jesus Christ can grow stronger and stronger.  I also hope you will remember it was built by people with many different ideas about god.  I want your faith to turn solid as the foundation Luke tells us about in his gospel.  I also want you to remember that the reason our foundation is so strong is that we all built it together.

Thank you very much.  God bless you all.

 

Posted in Haiti | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Guy World

haiti-001No matter how much time I spend in Haiti, new adventures unfold in the most unexpected places.  Today on a shopping trip to Port-au-Prince Lex stopped by the auto repair place to have them check his air conditioning.  This was not routine maintenance; nothing gets attention in Haiti until it is broken.  The air conditioner was kaput, which did not seem a problem until we got trapped in the snarl of Mariani Marketplace traffic and sat in sweat pools for the twelve mile, hour and a half trip to center city.

Conveniently (?) we had a bit of an mishap en route to the repair shop.  A concrete truck clipped our rear driver’s side and smashed our brake light.  Sure enough it was one of the Cemex drivers who poured the BLB roof back in July.  So when we pulled into the auto repair yard we needed two fixes, and a quick call to Michel from Cemex took care of the cost of their damage.  When you are with Lex, accidents are nothing more than cosmic opportunities to network with out-of-touch acquaintances.

The auto repair garage in Part-au-Prince has no garage.  It is just a huge plane of oil-drenched earth behind a metal gate between the main road and the harbor, acres and acres of derelict cars that in any other country would be called a junk yard.  There is a smattering of trees; each patch of shade represents the workshop where a particular mechanic and his associates toil.  As we approach Lex’s guy the iconic Life Magazine photo of five guys hunched over the open hood of a car comes to life.  A lot of eyes and arms wrangle with one engine.  A pair peels away to assist Lex; he’s the kind of guy who gets immediate attention.

While we wait in the shade a vendor meanders by hawking floor mats, another has wiper blades.  Hand held commerce thrives everywhere here.  My favorite is the guy with a basket of 3-pack condoms and vials of energy boost.  He sticks them in my face and pumps his arm with vigor, demonstrating the prowess he promises his customers.  His excitement withers the moment I decline.

Among the wreckage is a battered station wagon with a vanity plate from the Haitian Association of Economists; no fiction writer would dare pen such obvious irony.

Like all workplaces in Haiti, the garage is a laconic place, repairs happen as they will, in and between casual conversations and loitering on bumpers.  Welding sparks loop through the air, the occasional engine revs, it is a masculine preserve and the men within it are in no rush to venture beyond its gates to deal with a world far less rational than the internal combustion engine.

I have seventeen trips to Haiti.  I have never been to the National Museum or Petionville or Labadi or the Plaine du Col de Sac or the Barancourt distillery.  Actually, I’ve never been to any tourist attractions.  But I’ve been to the garage in Port-au-Prince, which is not open to just anyone and is surely a more representative slice of Haitian male culture than any of the more famous sites offer.

121205 Car Guys

The auto repair shop in Port-au-Prince

Posted in Haiti | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

It Takes a Conglomerate

haiti-001Anyone who subscribes to the quaint idea that it takes a village to raise a child need only consider what it takes to keep my little chum Dieunison and his older brother Jerry in school.  A village exists in Grand Goave that should care for these boys.  Although their mother and fathers are dead, they have a grandmother, an aunt and an uncle in town.  But these so-called adults abandoned them; leaving the boys to fend for themselves and sleep in a dirt floored lean-to with a tin roof so low they could not stand up straight.  When a village refuses to fulfill its responsibilities there are only two options: let Dieunison and Jerry become another pair of Haitian drifters or pump in an infusion of support.

Over the past three months we have built an extensive yet fragile network to give these boys a chance.  Like so many endeavors in life I had no idea what was involved going in, but now that I am up my waist in social service muck, I have no choice but to see it through.

Gama sought a school that would accept an 11 and 13 year old who had completed first and second grade respectively.  Huguener had contacts at L’ecole Maranatha; a Baptist missionary school that accepts problem children.  Headmaster Maxi met with us and the boys’ teachers, Naomi and Harry.  Harry agreed to tutor the boys every day after school and on Saturday mornings.  Lex and Renee volunteered a two room building they constructed near the block factory where the boys could live.  Huguener left the group house he shared with other guys, installed shutters and doors on the building, and took one room as his own in exchange for proctoring the two rascals.  Gama bought the boys beds, sheets and blankets.  Huguener drummed up a small table.  Syltae, a woman with four children of her own, welcomed the part-time job of cooking meals and laundering for this household of very young men. As the American I cowboyed up; my desire to give two boys a chance morphed into directly supporting more than half a dozen people.

I have no talent for social service; I have never received much and am wary of a society over reliant on help from others.  But my experience quilting this patchwork together helps me understand why providing social service is so expensive and why it so often fails. Trying to replicate what a family is supposed to do is an immense undertaking.  One would be hard pressed to find two children anywhere more ‘at-risk’ than Dieunison and Jerry, yet I have had to marshal the resources and good will of so many people I have worked with over the past year to give them an opportunity.

That does not mean that the boys appreciate, or even want, what is offered.  They have survived Port-au-Prince, they have lived on the streets; they are accustomed to doing whatever they please.  Though they like having a house and a bed and steady meal, they struggle getting to school and tutoring; there is always a pick-up soccer game more appealing than learning French grammar.  At least once every visit they wander off track we have a stern talk about the quid pro quo of receiving creature comforts in exchange for their education, though only in Haiti would a regular plate of rice and beans be considered a luxury.  I am prepared for the very real chance that our efforts will come to naught and they will return to being street thugs.  But since Dieunison captured my heart more than two years ago, I have not yet exhausted my will to try.

I wish there was a village to raise these boys; one that reared them well in a culture that values its children.  But that village does not exist in Haiti, at least not for Dieunison and Jerry.  Lacking that, I take the reins as best I can.  I’ll continue to cobble this conglomerate together until either the boys fall into the listless life they see all around them or, hopefully, until we ignite their potential and they strive for more.

121127 D & J & H

Huguener with Jerry and Dieunison outside their house

 

 

 

Posted in Haiti | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Where are the Thin Mints?

Thanksgiving was practically perfect. A long candle lit table of family and friends, a golden brown turkey, traditional oyster stuffing and wiggly cranberry sauce, a bevy of delicious side dishes.  After we finished the main course and took a break to play pool and drink more wine we spread out the homemade pies with ice cream and chocolates. Midway through coffee my cousin Jen asked, “Where are the thin mints?”  Jen knows, as do all my friends and family, that thin mints are as elemental to my Thanksgiving as turkey.  But alas, this year we had none.

 

Ever since I was a child Haviland thin mints graced our Thanksgiving dessert table.  They came in long narrow boxes, twenty white sugar wafers covered in dark chocolate.  Nothing fancy like Andes or those pastel colored things.  We craved only the 69 cent a box delicacies.

 

When I came to Cambridge in 1973 I was thrilled to learn that thin mints were made right here.  Before MIT became the biggest landowner in town, Cambridge was a candy capital. As an undergraduate you could walk in any direction from campus, enticed by the candy laced air.  The Haviland plant was in East Cambridge where the scent of thin mints in the fall escalated as they double shifted production.

 

Thin mints were available year round in the candy aisle of every supermarket, but before Thanksgiving they moved forward to dominate the seasonal displays.  A few years ago they got booted from the year ‘round candy shelf; I figured most people were like me and ate them only at the holidays.  I could still find them the week before Thanksgiving at any Star or CVS, 99 cents a box now.  Last year I had to go to three stores to find them, and paid a whopping $1.19!  But this year, I could not find them anywhere the week before Thanksgiving, at any price.

 

I discovered some today, online, where every product that crashes beneath the retail radar can sustain an afterlife as a specialty niche.  I can order them by the case, $2.20 a box, still made by Haviland, although now that the only thing manufactured in East Cambridge are bioengineered genes, Haviland has moved upshore to Revere.

 

I weathered Thanksgiving pretty well without my beloved thin mints and now I have eleven months to decide whether to relegate them to a distant lobe of my permanent memory, or go online and order a case for next year.  I might decide to move on from thin mints; the whole point of ‘cheap sweets’ is to be inexpensive, ephemeral, empty calories.  Then again, I might decide, like so many irrational old geezers, that it is worth paying a premium to chase the taste of my youth one more time.

Posted in Personal | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Deep Yoga

If there is one downside to all the travel during my past year, it is the frequent interruption to my daily yoga practice.  Though I may stretch and strike some poses in Haiti or Kalamazoo, the full Bikram experience requires an instructor’s guidance in the hot room.  I still practice every day when in Cambridge; a year ago that meant 25 or more classes in a month, but lately I have months with fewer than ten sessions.  I am faithful when in town, I am still limber and manage my poses; occasional yoga is better than none.  But without sustained practice, the meditative depth slips away.

 

This month I am blessed with three weeks at home, as I insist on celebrating Thanksgiving, my favorite holiday, among friends and family.  Between doing prodigious yard work and preparing for the feast, I enjoy a sustained string of yoga classes.  With each class my poses settle deeper. For the first time recently I actually touched my head and knee in Standing Head to Knee Pose and my elbows scraped the carpet in the Head to Knee Stretching.

 

But it is not the increased flexibility that I relish so much as the physical / mental balance that accompanies consistent practice.  That moment in Toe Stand, when my weight is balanced on the ball of one foot, the ankle of my suspended leg rests on my knee, my eyes focus on the floor four feet in front of me, and I raise my arms to prayer.  It is not simply a physical contortion; it is a moment when my sweaty, loose body merges with my consciousness.  I float; a moment of perfect balance between the force of gravity and my ascending spirit. I am simultaneously weightless and mindful and centered.  It is a deep yoga that I cannot attain through occasional practice. It is why I savor the privilege to practice every day

Posted in Yoga | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

The Cost of Construction

Back in the days before the earthquake the rule of thumb for the cost of construction along Haiti’s Southern peninsula was $25 per square foot; the original number we used for the Forward in Heath Clinic.  After the earthquake the number doubled overnight to $50 per square foot.  Then, as we designed engineered structures we experienced a steady creep to $70, even $80 per square foot.  This may be small compared with American hospital construction costs, which routinely hit $500 per square foot, but it is a massive increase in three years and causes havoc with trying to assemble enough money to build here.

 

The challenge of figuring out how much it costs to build in Haiti is exasperated by the upside down relation of materials to labor from what we experience in the US.  A first order approximation for American construction is that 1/3 of the cost is for materials, 2/3 for labor.  In Haiti the proportion is reversed, then doubled.  Even with labor rates creeping from $4 a day to $6 a day, labor represents only 10-15% of the cost of construction, while many materials cost more here than on the mainland.

 

Philanthropic projects like BLB and MoHI get all sorts of things donated, and we are happy to have them, but the cost of shipping goods from the US to Haiti is high, and the reliability of receipt it tenuous.  Very little arrives ready to install for free.

 

Our single largest expense is steel.  There is a reason why so many Haitian buildings are under reinforced; rebar is expensive.  There are few suppliers in Haiti, demand is high, supply short, but we will not scrimp on this critical structural ingredient.  While a typical Haitian house has 3 – #4 bars in each column; we have 8 – #6 bars.  That is six times more cross-section of steel, at six times the cost.

 

Everything about steel is expensive, including the delivery.  Rebar comes in thirty or forty foot lengths. It arrives on long flatbed trucks that cannot climb the hill to BLB, so the delivery company dumps it along Route 2 and laborers carry them to the site. BLB has over 2,500 forty foot long rebars buried in its concrete.  A laborer can drag one rod up the hill, or a group of three to five laborers can bundle several together and shoulder them.  Either way, we have made 2,500 round trips to get rebar to the building.  Each round trip takes about half an hour.  That is 1,250 man hours,

 

One day I was returning up the hill while a group of five laborers carried a bundle.  Wanting to be helpful, I slipped my shoulder under the bars and took up my share of the load.  I did fine for twenty or thirty paces.  Then I started breathing hard.  Soon I could not keep step.  After a few minutes I dropped away.  The laborers did not mind; they smiled at my effort and reveled in their superior muscle.

 

I wondered how much this Herculean effort to move steel uphill cost. 1,250 man hours at $6 a day is just shy of $1,000.  Peanuts, it seems, for such effort.  Still, like so many construction costs in Haiti, it represents real money that has no corollary in this country, where machines that the place of so many human hands and backs.

Posted in Haiti | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

What does it mean to Be Like Brit?

This is the speech I gave last night at the BeLikeBrit gala.

Someone told me that there is an NGO for every 750 people in Haiti.  I never verified that statistic but it feels about right.  NGO’s are everywhere.  Oxfam and USAID and Mission of Hope and Be Like Brit and Hands and Feet and Lifeline are names as common in Grand Goave as Macy’s and Wal-Mart and Stop ‘n’ Shop are here.  They are the engines of Haitian commerce, each a name to be trusted when you’re shopping to help others.  But wait a second, one of them is different. One of them is not a name.  One of them is a command.  Isn’t it just like Len Gengal to start a charity and instead of naming it with a noun, he makes it an order.  “Be Like Brit.”  Not Britney’s Orphanage or Britney’s Good Stuff, but, “Hey, you there, this is how you should act.”

So what does it mean to Be Like Brit?  First of all, it means you are nineteen years old, which is not all bad.  When we are nineteen the baby fat has evaporated, the pimples are finally going away, we are trim without having to stand on the scale every morning, we have hundreds of best friends forever and we are as beautiful as we will ever be.  We are in college, which is more fun than not; we are living away from our family, which is totally fun; but we still have the parents to fall back on for pretty much anything we need.  We feel very grown up because we can do anything we want.  We are 100% potential.

When we Be Like Brit we are adventurous and fly off to Haiti during January break. Maybe we go because our friends are going, maybe we go because it meets that social service requirement for school, maybe we go because we have a keen interest in the people who live there. Probably it is ‘all of the above’ because when we are nineteen, everything we do, we do for a million reasons. We are trying on the clothes of our future selves.  We toss aside the ones that don’t fit and pick up some cool threads along the way that we might want to put on later.

Being a 21st century kid / adult we use all modes of technology to communicate.  Every whim gets broadcast to the world.  “Just arrived PAP.  The drummers at the airport are cool.”  “The milk here is horrible, I want to start a dairy farm.”  “When I save the world, this is where I will start.”  “OMG I am so sick of beans and rice.  I want to open a McDonald’s here.” Our texts bounce into cyberspace.  They are the lighthouse beams that cut through the fog of youth; they clarify who we will become.  The ones that resonate go viral.

“They love us so much and everyone is so happy. They love what they have and they work so hard to get nowhere, yet they are all so appreciative. I want to move here and start an orphanage myself.”

To Be Like Brit is to remain forever on that lofty apex where anything is possible and nothing poses an obstacle.  Where whatever we wish becomes reality because we are supported by a firm pyramid of family and friends, resources and community.  Where building a dairy farm, or a McDonald’s or even an orphanage in desperate Haiti is not beyond the realm of the possible.  To Be Like Brit is to be forever young and perfect, but to make a difference.

I never met Britney Gengel; I never heard of her until five months after the earthquake. I have spent the last year trying to Be Like Brit.  I haven’t had any success in the part about being nineteen and beautiful again but I often feel a special kinship with Brit when I experience the pressure of life under Len’s thumb.  We are making progress, turning her final text into a substantial place to house orphans.  For those of us who are still here, the burden is a light one.  Britney gave us the dream, but she didn’t stay around long enough, so we have to make it real.

Posted in Haiti | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Death Comes to Grand Goave

Death comes to Haiti so arbitrary it shatters any illusion that we control our destiny.  Hurricane Sandy is on her third day of delivering heavy rain to Grand Goave.  Unlike Isaac, who quickly shuffled through his fierce gales and heavy rains, Sandy lacks bluster yet drenches us with swirling clouds that refuse to spin away.  Perhaps she lingers to visit her little black namesake at the bottom of our hill.  Perhaps she wants us to reconsider the wisdom of constructing a building so heavy it cannot move when an arc might serve us better.  Perhaps she wants to demonstrate the destructive power of the slow moving tortoise over the quick fleeting hare.  Sandy has already rendered more damage than Isaac, though her skies show no sign of clearing.

This morning five people in Grand Goave died from Hurricane Sandy; a landslide down the mountain next to Be Like Brit smothered a tent where a mother and her four children slept in one bed.  They were buried alive.  When Francky and Gilbert ran to the scene I considered joining, but thought better of it.  Though I add value in areas of design, direction and analysis, I am useless at tasks requiring brute strength, like digging through muddy remains.  The few corpses I have seen in my sheltered life have all been neatly composed in coffins. Corpses here are much more common, yet rarely so well preserved.

According to the World Bank, the average life expectancy for a baby born in Haiti in 2012 is 60.6 years, but that statistic does not jive with anyone’s experience living here.  Making it past sixty in Haiti is not the norm, it is a rare achievement. People who are thriving and vigorous one day are gone the next. Tragedy is the norm. People mourn untimely deaths with loud flamboyance, then quickly return to their daily rhythms. If people lingered in grief, their grief would be perpetual.

In a typical year in the United States I might hear of a few people who have died; most all of them after a full life. In my regular visits to Haiti I learn about someone who dies every month.   Here is a representative list from 2012; I imagine anyone else in this fragile country could give a similar accounting.

Dieunison’s mother died at the beginning of the year. She was reportedly a voodoo priestess, like her mother before her.  I have never heard anyone mention her cause of death, though she could not have been very old.

In February an elderly woman was hit by a motorcycle near MoHI’s gate.  Gama, who is a paramedic, rushed to the scene and collected her to the hospital, but the woman did not survive.

In March Gama’s cousin died, a thirty-three year old woman with a husband and three children.  She had a short, fatal illness though I never heard a diagnosis.

Marieve’s cousin died in child birth in April.  She is survived by a husband, young son and twin daughters, one of whom was born blind.

In May Pepe’s father-in-law died.  He at least had a long life.

Three local youths died in a horrendous wreck when their small car was run into a ditch by an out of control truck in June.  The truck’s chassis ploughed right over the car, crushing and killing them on the spot.

In July Lex’s sister-in-law died; age 42.

August was a month when horror visited children.  A six year old Hands and Feet orphan drowned in the Caribbean Sea.  After searching for hours, the matrons gave up when night fell.  The girl’s body was discovered the next day, her extremities gone. The same month Kylene, a MoHI Sunday singer, lost her third baby in four pregnancies.  The baby was full term, yet born dead.

I hoped that September would break the pattern; but all kinds of odd disease flourished. Toto had a wound on his arm that blistered and sent him to the hospital; he missed three weeks of work.  Ble, the painter, got a cut on his leg that festered into an ugly infection. He limped around the site for days with his pants leg rolled up so fresh air could scab over the oozing pus, but with so much plaster dust in the air his leg healed slowly.  Fanes came down with a stomach bug, the front end version of what plagued me, but in a more severe form.  He could not keep any food down, lost sixty pounds and moved to Les Cayes where his family could care for him.  Two days after I returned to the States Fanes died.  Dysentery?  Worms?  Whatever took this healthy man in his middle forties was likely something that could have been diagnosed and treated in any industrial nation.

When I return this month a banner in the crew’s lunch tent honors Boss Fanes, but in truth, I have not heard his name mentioned even once.  Two weeks after passing, life without Fanes is the new normal; everyone has moved on.

There is no time to grieve for Fanes, or the drowned girl, or Pepe’s father-in-law, or Dieunison’s mother because today we have a new tragedy, five bodies lying together wrapped in a USAID tarp.  Lex prays over them while a crowd of Haitians in ponchos and ripped garbage bags witness their passing before Hurricane Sandy even departs our shores.

At least half these people who died this year could have been saved by elementary public health measures – clean water, safe houses, vehicle inspections, maternity care, life guards.  We take these for granted in the United States and other developed countries.  But for nine million Haitians, and a billion others around the planet, these simple safeguards do not exist.  So people continue to die from landslides and labor; dysentery and drowning; and as long as we allow these conditions to prevail for our fellow humans, our society is much less ‘developed’ than we pretend.

Posted in Haiti | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Guardrails

Ah, those halcyon days of sitting around the main conference room at our office on Monday nights, reviewing sketches of elaborate ironwork railings with curliqued ‘B’s to ornament the orphanage.  At the end stages of construction, all of that is illusion.  We have a budget crunch and a surplus of wood – over 800 sheets of cut-up plywood and hundreds of 2×4’s left over from all the concrete work, so despite a desire not to use wood in a country prone to rot, we are building the courtyard stairs, the secondary partitions, furniture, and now guardrails out of wood.  These elements won’t last the life of the building, but they do not compromise its integrity and can be updated over time.

We have 21 guardrails around the courtyard’s second floor, each ten feet six inches long. Although we have a lot of wood, we don’t have much that long, and I want the top rail to be one piece, so first thing I do is ask Williere, the furniture maker, how many 2×4’s we have that are long enough to create continuous handrails.  “None’ he replies.  I doubt this, so we go find a few and I design a guardrail with one long top and a series of shorter horizontal and vertical elements, plus some plywood infill and a trio of stars.  It has design integrity, if not elegance, and can be built with what we have on hand.  I review the drawing with Williere, mark it on the wall at full scale and when I return two hours later he has made a pretty good facsimile of the idea, using four long 2×4’s!  Miraculous how a guy who said we had none this morning found plenty to save a few cuts.  I explain that we have to use the pieces as I drew them because we do not have enough long 2×4’s to make every guardrail the same.  He gives me an inscrutable look, dubious of such advance planning.

Although I like to give the crews autonomy in how they work, I realize the only way to get this built the way I want is to become Williere’s shadow. I spend three hours with him, measuring, cutting, nailing, making sure that the mock-up reflects not only what I want, but materials we have available.  This is a challenge for Williere because, as a furniture maker, he thinks of free standing objects, but the way I designed the guardrail it has to be built incrementally out from the columns.  He is a pleasant fellow, much brighter than most of the crew.  He knows how to find the centerline of a board and when I set a dimension on one side of the rail, he understands its counterpart.  He is skilled with a saw; his cuts are accurate.  We work well together.

Considering that the material in the guardrail have already been used three or four times, supported concrete for months and been exposed to Haiti’s severe weather, it is bit of a haggard piece of construction.  But we will prime and paint it up in a bright color and the children will love peering through its stars.  Maybe there is elaborate iron work in the orphanage’s future, but this will get us off to a safe and satisfactory start.

Wood guardrail at BLB with sea beyond

 

 

Posted in Haiti | Tagged | Leave a comment