A Final Haitian Exchange

haiti-001The Hotel Olaffson was distinctly less magical on the morning of the Day of the Dead. I got up shortly after seven to dress and pack; we had to leave for the airport by eight.  I decided to replenish our room’s water, so trundled our carafe up the concrete stairs, sticky with last night’s beer, and found the single old waiter on the breakfast shift.

“No l’eau.” He shook his head at the sight of my pitcher. “L’eau for sale,” grand ou small.” He used an odd collection of French and English. I shadowed him to the bar’s refrigerator where he extracted a few bottled waters. “Two dollars for small, ten dollars for grand.” His prices were off both in scale and proportion.

“No.” I shook my head and displayed two bills.  “These are U.S. dollars – one dollar for small, two dollars for large.” I offered at least twice the going rate, but I was thirsty and the morning after effects of the place dampened my spirit.

“No, no.” His voice rose way too loud.  “Two dollars for small; in Haitian is 15 Goudes.”

Exactly, I thought, knowing 15 Goudes equals 36 cents.  The man’s face trembled a bit; he was past his prime for the kind of verbal assault Haitians relish flinging at each other, but he was trying his darndest. I sighed, decided against a math lesson on currency exchange, and turned on my heels with an empty carafe.

Jonathan and Francky were just rousing so I returned to the veranda for a bite of continental breakfast.  The Hotel Olaffson is not a Holiday Inn Express; there is no waffle maker, but there were some breads and jams laid out with coffee and milk. I sat at a table and surveyed Halloween’s aftermath.  To my right a stocky American asked a black guy with dreads whether he could find a place that made coffins by hand. “I don’t want to see the manufactured kind.” The local nodded, sure. The American continued. “Great, but we have to do it before my appointment with the Ambassador.” On my left a guy in black jeans and Harley T-shirt piped up, “Why aren’t you at the cemetery, its Day of the Dead?” “I have to fly out this morning,” I replied. “Why aren’t you there?” “I only go where people can pay me to drive; no one at the cemetery has any money.” It was too early for me to structure any response to that. He stood up, brushed his hands on his thighs and sighed at my ineptitude. “No one respects the Day of the Dead like they used to.”

My nemesis the waiter saved me from having to examine that comment in any depth.  He arrived at my table with a bottle of water. “Gratis.” He placed it in the center. I nodded thanks.  When I finished breakfast I set a dollar under my plate for him.

The waiter and I had run the full circle of a perfect Haitian interaction. We’d each staked a position, drew a little heat, and then reached d’accord that pleased us both. Now, it was time for me to go home.

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Tap Tap Sculpture at the Hotel Olaffson

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Graham Greene Slept Here…Me, Not so Much

haiti-001In the 1960’s, Al Seitz struggled to maintain at least one guest in residence at Port-au-Prince’s Hotel Olaffson to ward off Papa Doc Duvalier from appropriating the most famous watering hole in the Caribbean. That still didn’t curb the Brooklyn native from giving random tourists a quick once over and banishing any in white shoes and matching belts with a curt, “You wouldn’t like it here”.  He managed to host enough misfits in the turn of the century mansion – originally built to house one of Haiti’s revolving door presidents – to evade the dictator.  Several of his hearty guests populate Graham Greene’s hysterically inappropriate novel, The Comedians, which extracts humor from Papa Doc’s terror as well as the dead bodies floating in the hotel’s swimming pool.

In better days John Barrymore lounged on the bric-a-brac veranda sipping rum punch and enjoying the upstairs corner room so often that Captain Olaffson, the Norwegian who bought the hotel from the departing US Marines in 1934, named the best room after him. The marines had used the plantation style mansion as a hospital, but Olaffason recrafted their pool table into a bar and welcomed expat artists, intellectuals, and eclectics throughout the mid-twentieth century. Why a military hospital was furnished with such a lavish pool table to begin with is not clear, but like all mysteries of Haiti, its charm trumps its rationale.

The Duvalier’s never appropriated the unique property, but their regime eventually ground Hotel Olaffson to destitution, as it did everything in Haiti. In 1986 the Olaffson closed. All the wicker furniture was carted away and locals whose memories recalled gentler times pulled the nameplates of John Barrymore, Graham Greene and other famous guests, off their doors.

Through pluck and fancy Richard Morse and Blair Townsend, a pair of American Princeton grads, bought the place in 1988 and refurbished it to its former funkiness. The youthful, bushy-haired Richard, smiling from a faded New York Times article heralding the hotel’s rebirth that is plastered next to the check-in desk, still owns the place; although now his grey ponytailed mane and faded jean slouch conjures a zeitgeist of aging hippie more than 80’s entrepreneur.

Last night, Halloween, I had the privilege to be Richard’s guest, along with hundreds of other expats and a smattering of hip Haitians. Plane schedules and transportation between Grand Goave and Port-au-Prince all conspired that I should join Jonathan, Lauren, and Zakiyyah; Be Like Brit’s director and his two Tulane interns, on their overnight junket to celebrate Halloween at the Olaffson.  When we arrived mid-afternoon I was pleased how much the place looked and felt like Graham Greene’s rendering. The welded metal Day of the Dead sculptures, mechanical zombies rising out of coffins and multi-armed babies, meshed perfectly with the hotel’s flowering shrubs, palm trees, curved walks, erratic stairs and angled structures; a haphazard respite from Port-au-Prince’s dust.

Francky, BLB’s driver, took the girls further up hill for a spa afternoon at the newer, ritzier Caribe, while Jonathan and I loitered along the Olaffson’s veranda enjoying chicken, pommes frites and plantains; Prestige beer and rum and coke. We weren’t lucky enough to land the Graham Greene cottage or John Barrymore suite, but Jonathan assured me our remote cottage would be distant from late night music.

Wrong. Halloween is a big day at the Hotel Olaffson and the entire compound was reordered for the event.  The pool was covered with a platform set with tables under a tent; I’ll never know if the bodies are still there. The patio was the dance floor and a stage was set up beyond. Our supposedly remote room sat at ground zero of the night’s festivities.  When Jonathan and I retired for a pre-party rest around 6 p.m. the band ran a practice set. Even inside our room, we had to shout over the sound.

Sleep is overrated when an experience looms, and observing the Olaffson’s Halloween crowd streaming in from nine ‘til midnight was worth the deprivation. Privacy-seeking screen actors and Beat Generation writers stalking exotic locales have been replaced by NGO disciples: skinny, slightly disheveled hipsters alternating a cigarette or Prestige in one hand and faux hugging each other with the other. The guys all have beards and carefully unkempt hair. They wear too short oxford cloth shirts that hang ambiguously over frumpy-butt jeans.  The women’s hair hangs long and loose.  When their free hand cannot find someone to hug, they grab the mass, bun it to the top of their heads and sigh with relief for their cool neck.  They wear sheer dresses of every conceivable cut and pattern, with the single commonality that every style tucks under their shapely asses.

We found a table on the edge of the action. Francky, not Grand Goave’s most energetic evangelical to begin with, had the time of his life.  He’d never seen so many blan, or tightly sheathed Haitian women in stilettos.  Jonathan and I enjoyed his unsubtle gaping; his eyes, head, sometimes even his tongue followed the women’s backsides across the patio.  When he couldn’t sit as passive observer any longer he struck off on his own.  Half an hour later Jonathan and I found him sitting along the patio wall, arms raised high to the beat, mesmerized by a shapely black form in tiny cut offs in a twerking frenzy.  We let Francky find out for himself, much later, that the twerker was a guy in drag.

Around midnight Richard Morse took the stage with his band RAM, a ten-piece ensemble with three flowing black voodoo songstresses, a trio of horns, and the usual assortment of drums, keyboard, guitar and bass.  The men wore black pants and skeleton T-shirts; Richard added a topcoat and high hat.  The local crowd swayed in succinct rhythm and mouthed the choruses of the Kreyol tunes set to loud, bluesy rock. The white folks danced with greater energy but less effect.  A quartet of gay guys in pleated pants and impeccable silk shirts claimed their own corner, while the lone Asian woman, a perky girl in a perfect orange shirtwaist dress, smiled and danced too wholesomely.

Around one I drifted up to sit on the wall near the base of the veranda to enjoy the view of the grounds, the band, the dancing throng, the Day of the Dead table littered with candles; food and wine beckoning our ancestors to rise up and nourish on our tribute to them. The serious dancers hoofed this far out; people who wanted space to work off a partner and display their moves. Sitting alone, buxom ladies in skirts so tight they must have dressed before they showered came on to me. I smiled at their attentions but preferred to turn in alone. I returned to our room, where the music was just as loud, percussive and persuasive.

I showered, crawled beneath the spread, clamped one pillow under my head and one pillow over. When the music turned into dream I cannot say, nor can I discern whether the hours of noisy cleanup entered a conscious or slumbering brain.  All I know is I rose refreshed.  I can’t imagine it was from sleep.  I attribute it to the good spirits of the place: to Graham Greene’s prose, to John Barrymore’s artistry, to the spirits nourished by our Day of the Dead celebration, and to Richard Morse’s reinventing the Hotel Olaffson for us twenty-first century oddballs who come Haiti’s way.

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Hotel Olaffson, Port-au-Prince, Haiti

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Day of the Dead Statuary

 

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Return to Haiti

haiti-001The flight from Boston to Miami was uneventful. I had my usual exit row window seat, 18F.  Next to me was a geeky young blond guy who nodded in greeting before donning headphones for the duration.

I boarded the flight to Port-au-Prince early; after so many trips here I’ve earned Priority Access. I settled into my same exit row seat.  A stocky guy with a trio of small bags dumped his stuff onto the middle seat and pointed to his boarding pass. I tried to explain the difference between seats D and E.  I suggested he use the overhead for some of his belongings, which prompted him to stand in the aisle and repack everything. An even bigger guy bumped behind him.  They jabbed their boarding passes at one another until deciding the bigger guy would take the middle. More housekeeping ensued as stuff got tossed in the aisle seat and the overhead with no apparent logic.

My neighbor settled in with a smile, a firm handshake and a litany of questions.  He seemed disappointed it was not my first trip to Haiti, he wanted to guide me into his native land, but accepted my seasoned traveller status when I explained my involvement with the orphanage and school in Grand Goave.  The guy builds tennis courts in Fort Lauderdale and returns to Haiti every month to visit his wife and young children.

The flight attendant stopped by to quiz us on the operation of the emergency door.  I half listened and nodded understanding.  But my neighbor engaged her. “ I can open that door but we will not have to, we will have no problems on this trip.”  She smiled, bemused, and moved on.  He turned to me and whispered, “Nothing can go wrong with you on the plane. God will watch over and bless us because of your good work.”

Before we are even off the ground in Miami Haiti’s chaos and magic shine through.

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Seeking a Relationship / Settling for a Transaction

usa-001I had my annual physical this week and am happy to report that my health is fine, as usual.  I’ve had the same doctor for twenty years. Marcus Welby has nothing on Mark Bauer, M.D. my internist at Harvard Vanguard. Dr. Bauer is conscientious, knowledgeable and compassionate.  Over time, our relationship has evolved in subtle ways.  At the start I trusted him intuitively, now I trust him empirically since we have a twenty-year history of excellent care.  In the early days he made notes as we talked, now he enters information on the computer, but either way he pays more attention to me than to his data entry.  He is more cautious about ordering tests than he used to be; Harvard Vanguard has clamped down as a cost savings measure.  But none of these changes have significantly altered my care. I have few medical challenges, but when I do Dr. Bauer responds immediately and I don’t second-guess his advice.  There is no need to – he knows me and has my best interests at heart.

I’ve been attending the Northeastern University Open Classroom this semester, ‘Policy for a Healthy America’.  The speakers are all informative, but last week’s session, “Is There a Doctor in the House, Maybe Not, but will it Matter?” helped me understand the conflicting dynamics of our healthcare system in a new, comprehensive light.  Tim Hoff discussed the demographics of our healthcare providers – not enough doctors, many retiring soon, not enough primary care docs, too many specialists, more demand for providers, more demands on providers, and high levels of job dissatisfaction among doctors, nurses, and pretty much everyone else in healthcare.  These folks may be well paid, but they are very unhappy.

Some aspects of our evolving healthcare landscape will improve this situation – more doctors are opting to be employees at the same time that integrated care and bundled payments make private practice increasingly irrelevant.  Some aspects of the healthcare landscape will exasperate the situation – medical schools’ focus on tertiary, specialized care are not providing the number or type of clinicians we need. Medical care will become increasingly centralized and team-based as fewer doctors are responsible for more patients, and nurses, PA’s nurse practitioners, and Medical Assistants pick up more and more direct care.

How this will play out is not entirely clear, but one thing is certain.  The relationship I have with Dr. Bauer will become history.  Except for the rich who pay for concierge care, our future will not include a personal relationship with our doctor; we may not have any single person who understands our health from ongoing face-to-face experience.

This is really no surprise; it’s the logical extension of so many other aspects of our lives.  The family farm has given way to corporate agriculture; the neighborhood grocer has become Super Stop’n’Shop, the hardware store has become Home Depot, even the neighborhood newspaper boy, of which I was one, has morphed into a faceless adult who tosses the papers from his car before dawn. This transition is more difficult in healthcare since our health is an intimate concern. But the change is underway and it’s bigger than the Affordable Care Act or fewer private practices or shuttered community hospitals or the dichotomies between our massively expensive private healthcare and meager public health initiatives.

Healthcare evolved from a vocation to a profession, and now it’s a business.  It was based in relationships, but in the future it will be based on transactions.  Ideally each individual’s future health will reside in a comprehensive record that will allow all manner of generalists and specialists to accurately and efficiently assess our needs and then diagnosis, prescribe, and treat accordingly.  The dystopian view is willy-nilly data files with inadequate safeguards and little coordination that put us at the mercy of people making life-threatening decisions based on incomplete information.  Most likely each scenario will play out.  Well-educated and informed individuals will learn how to champion their own needs, while the poor and disenfranchised will get lost in the morass. Healthcare will no longer pair doctors with patients; we will be providers and consumers. Astute consumers will enjoy their choice and influence; passive consumers will live – or die – with what comes their way.

The Agency for Healthcare Research and Quality has determined that 64 million annual physicals at a cost of $7 billion are not cost-effective healthcare experiences.  The study is probably correct; my annual physicals never turn up much of anything.  But Dr. Bauer and Harvard Vanguard are bucking this study; I am still eligible for an annual physical. I accept that at some point in the future it will become a luxury I either do without or pay for out of pocket.  I value my relationship with Dr. Bauer and am sorry that my children will likely not enjoy such a trusting intimate relationship with their doctor.  But I am realistic in accepting that healthcare’s evolving business model is not Dr. Bauer’s doing or Harvard Vanguards or mine; it is the collective result of a society that puts undue value on economic cost until we’ve lost something valuable that cannot be economically measured. People bemoan dead downtowns even as they choose to shop at Wal-Mart. We pine for a life of meaningful relationships, but time and again, if there are a few bucks to be saved, we opt for a transaction instead and then wonder why we feel unsatisfied.

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The Pergola

vitruvian_man-001My neighbors use their back yard a lot; they have barbeques, they play games. I enjoy hearing their outdoor antics. This summer they built a pergola in the far corner of their lawn. Construction workers buzzed happy saws for a week erecting the folly. I expected that once finished they would spend even more time in their yard.  But they did not.  Instead, upon finishing their playful structure their house went quiet.

It’s a two-family house, a style common to Cambridge, and their family is quintessentially Cambridge. Ilsa is a near-retirement social worker with a lingering Eastern European accent. She lives upstairs with her younger daughter, who recently finished her own Master’s in Social Work and her daughter’s Haitian boyfriend. Ilsa’s son Sam lives downstairs with his Asian wife and their two tall and thin daughters.

I wondered about the quiet, but we are urban neighbors, which means we keep a respectful distance. One evening in late July I met Ilsa while gardening. Before I could even congratulate her on the pergola I realized something was not right.  Ilsa asked rapid questions about dampproofing and mold remediation and other unsavory aspects of construction she thought I, as an architect, might know. Finally she revealed that Sam’s oldest daughter had been diagnosed with leukemia, was in Boston Children’s Hospital on an experimental protocol, would be home within a month, but needed to return to a highly antiseptic environment.

Construction noise resumed, but there was nothing cheerful about the masonry drills and drainage pumps, vapor barriers and mechanical systems they installed to turn their creaky old house into a dust-free / low humidity environment for the fragile girl.  The work is complete, Sam’s daughter is home, and though they appreciate the brownies we bring, the family has grown understandably inward.

I have yet to see or hear anyone swing under the pergola.  Still, I’m glad they built it when they did; if they’d waited even another month it would have been deemed a frivolous excess. The pergola is an aspiration – it’s where they’ll go once the horror of devastating disease is behind them, and they can all emerge outdoors to play again.

131011 Pergola

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The Value of Suffering

vitruvian_man-001This essay by Pico Iyer was originally published in the NY TImes on 9/7/2013.  I find it beautiful and thought provoking.

NARA, Japan — Hundreds of Syrians are apparently killed by chemical weapons, and the attempt to protect others from that fate threatens to kill many more. A child perishes with her mother in a tornado in Oklahoma, the month after an 8-year-old is slain by a bomb in Boston. Runaway trains claim dozens of lives in otherwise placid Canada and Spain. At least 46 people are killed in a string of coordinated bombings aimed at an ice cream shop, bus station and famous restaurant in Baghdad. Does the torrent of suffering ever abate — and can one possibly find any point in suffering?

Wise men in every tradition tell us that suffering brings clarity, illumination; for the Buddha, suffering is the first rule of life, and insofar as some of it arises from our own wrongheadedness — our cherishing of self — we have the cure for it within. Thus in certain cases, suffering may be an effect, as well as a cause, of taking ourselves too seriously. I once met a Zen-trained painter in Japan, in his 90s, who told me that suffering is a privilege, it moves us toward thinking about essential things and shakes us out of shortsighted complacency; when he was a boy, he said, it was believed you should pay for suffering, it proves such a hidden blessing.

Yet none of that begins to apply to a child gassed to death (or born with AIDS or hit by a “limited strike”). Philosophy cannot cure a toothache, and the person who starts going on about its long-term benefits may induce a headache, too. Anyone who’s been close to a loved one suffering from depression knows that the vicious cycle behind her condition means that, by definition, she can’t hear the logic or reassurances we extend to her; if she could, she wouldn’t be suffering from depression.

Occasionally, it’s true, I’ll meet someone — call him myself — who makes the same mistake again and again, heedless of what friends and sense tell him, unable even to listen to himself. Then he crashes his car, or suffers a heart attack, and suddenly calamity works on him like an alarm clock; by packing a punch that no gentler means can summon, suffering breaks him open and moves him to change his ways.

Occasionally, too, I’ll see that suffering can be in the eye of the beholder, our ignorant projection. The quadriplegic asks you not to extend sympathy to her; she’s happy, even if her form of pain is more visible than yours. The man on the street in Calcutta, India, or Port-au-Prince, Haiti, overturns all our simple notions about the relation of terrible conditions to cheerfulness and energy and asks whether we haven’t just brought our ideas of poverty with us.

But does that change all the many times when suffering leaves us with no seeming benefit at all, and only a resentment of those who tell us to look on the bright side and count our blessings and recall that time heals all wounds (when we know it doesn’t)? None of us expects life to be easy; Job merely wants an explanation for his constant unease. To live, as Nietzsche (and Roberta Flack) had it, is to suffer; to survive is to make sense of the suffering.

That’s why survival is never guaranteed.

Or put it as Kobayashi Issa, a haiku master in the 18th century, did: “This world of dew is a world of dew,” he wrote in a short poem. “And yet, and yet. …” Known for his words of constant affirmation, Issa had seen his mother die when he was 2, his first son die, his father contract typhoid fever, his next son and a beloved daughter die.

He knew that suffering was a fact of life, he might have been saying in his short verse; he knew that impermanence is our home and loss the law of the world. But how could he not wish, when his 1-year-old daughter contracted smallpox, and expired, that it be otherwise?

After his poem of reluctant grief, Issa saw another son die and his own body paralyzed. His wife died, giving birth to another child, and that child died, maybe because of a careless nurse. He married again and was separated within weeks. He married a third time and his house was destroyed by fire. Finally, his third wife bore him a healthy daughter — but Issa himself died, at 64, before he could see the little girl born.

My friend Richard, one of my closest pals in high school, upon receiving a diagnosis of prostate cancer three years ago, created a blog called “This world of dew.” I sent him some information about Issa — whose poems, till his death, express almost nothing but gratitude for the beauties of life — but Richard died quickly and in pain, barely able to walk the last time I saw him.

MY neighbors in Japan live in a culture that is based, at some invisible level, on the Buddhist precepts that Issa knew: that suffering is reality, even if unhappiness need not be our response to it. This makes for what comes across to us as uncomplaining hard work, stoicism and a constant sense of the ways difficulty binds us together — as Britain knew during the blitz, and other cultures at moments of stress, though doubly acute in a culture based on the idea of interdependence, whereby the suffering of one is the suffering of everyone.

“I’ll do my best!” and “I’ll stick it out!” and “It can’t be helped” are the phrases you hear every hour in Japan; when a tsunami claimed thousands of lives north of Tokyo two years ago, I heard much more lamentation and panic in California than among the people I know around Kyoto. My neighbors aren’t formal philosophers, but much in the texture of the lives they’re used to — the national worship of things falling away in autumn, the blaze of cherry blossoms followed by their very quick departure, the Issa-like poems on which they’re schooled — speaks for an old culture’s training in saying goodbye to things and putting delight and beauty within a frame. Death undoes us less, sometimes, than the hope that it will never come.

As a boy, I’d learned that it’s the Latin, and maybe a Greek, word for “suffering” that gives rise to our word “passion.” Etymologically, the opposite of “suffering” is, therefore, “apathy”; the Passion of the Christ, say, is a reminder, even a proof, that suffering is something that a few high souls embrace to try to lessen the pains of others. Passion with the plight of others makes for “compassion.”

Almost eight months after the Japanese tsunami, I accompanied the Dalai Lama to a fishing village, Ishinomaki, that had been laid waste by the natural disaster. Gravestones lay tilted at crazy angles when they had not collapsed altogether. What once, a year before, had been a thriving network of schools and homes was now just rubble. Three orphans barely out of kindergarten stood in their blue school uniforms to greet him, outside of a temple that had miraculously survived the catastrophe. Inside the wooden building, by its altar, were dozens of colored boxes containing the remains of those who had no surviving relatives to claim them, all lined up perfectly in a row, behind framed photographs, of young and old.

As the Dalai Lama got out of his car, he saw hundreds of citizens who had gathered on the street, behind ropes, to greet him. He went over and asked them how they were doing. Many collapsed into sobs. “Please change your hearts, be brave,” he said, while holding some and blessing others. “Please help everyone else and work hard; that is the best offering you can make to the dead.” When he turned round, however, I saw him brush away a tear himself.

Then he went into the temple and spoke to the crowds assembled on seats there. He couldn’t hope to give them anything other than his sympathy and presence, he said; as soon as he heard about the disaster, he knew he had to come here, if only to remind the people of Ishinomaki that they were not alone. He could understand a little of what they were feeling, he went on, because he, as a young man of 23 in his home in Lhasa had been told, one afternoon, to leave his homeland that evening, to try to prevent further fighting between Chinese troops and Tibetans around his palace.

He left his friends, his home, even one small dog, he said, and had never in 52 years been back. Two days after his departure, he heard that his friends were dead. He had tried to see loss as opportunity and to make many innovations in exile that would have been harder had he still been in old Tibet; for Buddhists like himself, he pointed out, inexplicable pains are the result of karma, sometimes incurred in previous lives, and for those who believe in God, everything is divinely ordained. And yet, his tear reminded me, we still live in Issa’s world of “And yet.”

The large Japanese audience listened silently and then turned, insofar as its members were able, to putting things back together again the next day. The only thing worse than assuming you could get the better of suffering, I began to think (though I’m no Buddhist), is imagining you could do nothing in its wake. And the tear I’d witnessed made me think that you could be strong enough to witness suffering, and yet human enough not to pretend to be master of it. Sometimes it’s those things we least understand that deserve our deepest trust. Isn’t that what love and wonder tell us, too?

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Where is Our Nation of Laws?

usa-001John Adams, the hard-nosed framer of the Massachusetts Constitution, which became the model for the U.S. Constitution, once heralded our achievement as creating a nation of laws rather than a nation of men. He envisioned a republic released from the tyranny of brute strength and the cult of personality in favor of one that gives all men a voice to shape the affairs of state and them abide by them.

His ideal was tarnished in his own lifetime; after George Washington stepped down the country descended into a carnival of politics to which he was ill suited. After a single term as President, Adams lost to his politically savvy nemesis, Thomas Jefferson.

Still, the antics John Adams persevered are nothing compared to the wanton disregard for our nations principles now on display.  This morning’s NY Times had complementary headlines that each tarnished our nation’s principles, and together highlight the magnitude of our fall from reason.  Apparently a group of conservatives (read rich, old, white men) have plotted for months to shutdown the government if they could not get their way with Obamacare.  Forget that Obamacare is official law, forget that the Supreme Court upheld it’s major provisions, forget that the people reelected the President who made it the cornerstone of his first term.  Forget even that funding for Obamacare is independent of the budget that shut us down.  A bunch of rich old guys don’t like it and so 800,000 people get furloughed as a result.

The second headline is about two raids we made in foreign countries during a week when, in theory, we are out of business. This makes me realize that the definition of ‘essential personal’ is really, do you carry a gun. The people who provide social service, food, housing, and education are non-essential while pretty much everyone with a weapon is still roaming the earth, further diminishing our nation’s principles.

Every one of has to deal with laws we don’t like.  Many of us don’t like Obamacare. But like it or not it’s the law, and the way to change the law is not by shutting our government down.  Since Obamacare haters have been unable to overturn it through legislation, the courts, or an election cycle, they have taken the law into their own hands and shut us down. Shame on them.  And shame on any elected official who capitulates the their shenanigans. (Are you listening Mr. Boehner?) Open our government back up for business again.

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CorePower Yoga

awkward_pose_3-001It turns out my addiction to yoga is fickle.  My annual membership to Bikram came to a close in early September.  After 1,046 classes I’d been feeling diminishing returns.  Some days the heat seemed as formidable a foe as on my first day, some days I lost focus, other days I simply didn’t have the energy to complete all the postures.

Coincidently a new CorePower Yoga studio opened a mile from my house. CorePower originated in Denver; I’d been to their studios when vacationing there.  They offered a free week of yoga and I figured I needed a change.

Bikram yoga has been belittled as McYoga because of its uniformity – the exact same sequence of the exact same postures every class regardless where you are in the world.  I can understand the logic behind the label, but it’s misleading. McDonald’s offers lame food while Bikram offers excellent yoga.  Not all yoga devotees are Bikram fans, but none deny its validity.

CorePower is the Whole Foods of yoga, a carefully conceived experience of health and goodness that disguises the corporate backbone beneath the surface.  CorePower has studios all over the United States; the one in my neighborhood is the first in Massachusetts. Unlike yoga studios that provide little more than a barren room with an attached toilet, or Bikram, which offers at least rudimentary shower and changing places, CorePower Yoga is a well-appointed spa.  The lobby is gracious and tall, littered with expensive accessories for sale. There are comfortable sofas arranged in front of the endlessly burning fireplace. The locker rooms are clean and large, the showers have custom heads, there’s soap and lotion galore.

CorePower plays music during class.  I had never done yoga to music and found it distracting.  In my first class Adele interfered with my concentration during sun salutations; Sting was annoying during my Warrior II. I thought I might not even finish out my free week. But CorePower’s forte’s – like Whole Foods – is variety and over the course of my week I attended two C2 intermediate yoga classes plus four Sculpt classes (aerobics with a yoga flair) and one Hot Power Fusion, a less intense version of Bikram. Although CorePower is full of amenities that don’t resonate with me – who wants a burning fireplace on a brilliant late summer day – I decided that CorePower had more to offer than flash and, needing a sustained break from Bikram, I signed on as a regular member.

Three weeks later I am a CorePower convert.  I tune out the music whenever it bothers me, but there are times when it truly complements my effort, especially in Sculpt, where the beat sustains the aerobic speed. Sculpt has become my primary class, but after doing it for two or three days in a row, I intersperse a C2 or Hot Power Fusion and enjoy the changeup. CorePower is more energetic than Bikram, but less sustained. Each class provides plenty of physical challenge for me. I figured all the peripherals would obscure the mental bliss Bikram often provided, but to my pleasure, I captured some of that today. In the middle of Sculpt, between the cross-training antics of performing military presses from warrior pose and arm extensions from horse position, I became hyper aware of my surroundings. Every part of my body moved through space with a distinctive grace and ease.  It was exhilarating.

My shift from Bikram to CorePower has taught me a few things.  First I am a fickle lover. Not only did I go cold turkey from daily Bikram to daily CorePower, I did it without looking back for an instant.  Second, I realize that CorePower is not really yoga.  If you think about the name carefully, yoga is only about one third of the experience.  Every class has a core component, and every class has a power focus. Perhaps I needed to pull myself out of such a pure yoga pursuit.  Third, I realize how much I like the variety.  Within the three types of classes they offer, every instructor inserts his or her own modifications. I don’t now exactly what I am going to do each day and I like the balance between overall structure and internal variety.

My four years of Bikram contribute every class I do at CorePower.  Bikram has a culture of improvement – the teachers correct our postures and over time my poses have become very accurate.  CorePower is a culture of encouragement.  Teachers never offer anything but superlatives to individuals or the class; their hands-on corrections are simply gentle massages.  I am not sure whether CorePower’s approach can help people improve their form, but what I learned in Bikram apply.

Perhaps I will return to Bikram in time, perhaps I will wander in another direction.  For now I am content to sweat through CorePower’s offerings.  They make me feel healthy and fit with a more generous spirit than Bikram offers. And, at least for now, it’s a lot more fun.

corepower fireplace

Fireplace at CorePower Yoga

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Thomas L. Friedman and Me

 usa-001Thomas L. Friedman and I are pretty much alike.  Okay, okay, he is Pulitzer Prize winning columnist for the New York Times while I write a blog followed a handful of people. Farrar Straus Giroux publishes his oeuvre while they send me exquisite rejections. But besides that, we are very much alike. In our worldview; in our attempt to take complex realities and distill their essence; in our belief that no matter how labyrinthine a situation may appear, there is always some way to resolve it with dignity and respect for all parties.

The World is Flat is a seminal book; it frames the twenty-first century in a way that fundamentally changed my perspective. Not all of his writing is as good, not all of his vignettes so compelling, but Mr. Friedman consistently has important things to say, and says them well. Proportionate to our readership, I try to do the same.

Sometimes I am actually ahead of his curve.  In the NY Times Sunday Review of August 25, 2013 he wrote an incredible article, Foreign Policy by Whisper and Nudge that recast my understanding of why American foreign policy is so off track. He articulates the differences between cold war foreign policy (jockeying for external favors among nations) and our current challenges, which repeatedly get us entangled in the internal affairs of other countries. With regard to the Middle East he states a position that readers of The Awkward Pose may recall from my bicycle trip (Oklahoma: Energy for the Taking, 12/18/2011) that the United States cannot have a viable foreign policy in the Middle East until we become energy independent of that region.

The Awkward Pose recently surpassed 20,000 readers. Thank you to all my regular followers. I doubt Thomas Friedman is one of them, or that he got this ideas about energy independence from me, and it doesn’t matter.  It is still gratifying to know that things I am concerned about, and write about, enter the public conversation at the level that Thomas Friedman writes.  That is the way that change happens in today’s world.  People like me toss ideas out there, people like you read them, conversations start, discussions ensue, ideas evolve, and consensus builds. The democracy of the Internet is less straightforward than a dictatorship, less orderly than a bureaucracy. It’s messy and exciting, which is how sharing a planet with seven billion people ought to be.

 

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All The Way

usa-001The A.R.T. pulses this September with the electricity of a powerful hit. The energy of the full house crowd at last night’s preview of All the Way was palpable; it surged when the cast took their places on the stately set, hit a crescendo when Bryan Cranston strutted to his center spot on the oval carpet, and then kept right on climbing through three hours of complex, dense, fascinating historical drama.

The A.R.T. under Diane Paulus knows a few things about making a hit.  Two years ago her restaged Porgy and Bess starring Audra MacDonald captivated Cambridge and went on to Broadway and multiple Tony awards.  Ditto last year’s Pippin. All the Way is not cut from the same cloth – it is a drama rather than a musical, imported from the 2012 Oregon Shakespeare Festival – but the A.R.T production has the same excitement that flows from witnessing a Broadway blockbuster in the making.

It is fitting that the story of LBJ’s first year in office, with a focus on passing the Civil Rights Bill of 1964, premiered in a Shakespeare festival; Robert Schenkkan’s play is epic tragedy. Seventeen actors play forty-four roles; each one deeply human and ultimately flawed.   The play’s end, LBJ’s landslide victory over Goldwater in 1964, is clouded by LBJ’s understanding that the best of his presidency is already behind him and that in winning the nation he lost the South. The presentiment of disaster eclipses the momentary triumph.

The play is not perfect.  The bedside scene between LBJ and his long-time aide Walter rings false; the audience already has enough foreshadowing of how Walter will stumble; LBJ does not need to give him a bedside pat.  The subsequent banter between LBJ and J. Edgar Hoover is too broad; it buys a few laughs based on our contemporary understanding of Hoover’s twisted homosexuality at the expense of lifting the audience out of the story’s time and place. The beginning, with all the phone conversations, may be an unavoidable way to introduce the complex story, but it feels like a Washington D.C version of Bye Bye Birdie, while the final scene is simply too long.  The audience is already overwhelmed by the immensity of this effort; we don’t need to climb so many false peaks before applauding the final bows.

Those problems are, at most, fifteen minutes of the total endeavor. The other 165 minutes are riveting. As a subscriber I landed fourth row center seats. Watching Bryan Cranston face down every powerful person who populated the evening news during my youth with spitting vehemence, deep distrust, and a huge need for their love, is astounding.  Mr. Cranston is phenomenal. He is so hoarse by the end of the evening I fear for his voice over the long-term, but every inflection last night was perfect.  Equally impressive is his counterpart, Reed Birney, who is such milquetoast as Hubert Humphrey one is almost glad Humphrey never achieved the presidency (until you recall who beat him).  The cast is uniformly fine; Dan Butler as George Wallace and Betsy Aidern and Susannah Schulman as various political wives and D.C. accessories all bring depth to small roles.  One fascinating aspect of the multiple casting is how actor’s play across the political spectrum.  Birney is Strom Thurmond as well as Humphrey; Schulman is both Muriel Humphrey and Lurleen Wallace.

There are actually 47 characters in the play. John F. and Jacqueline Kennedy are often present in spirit, while Bobby Kennedy is a ubiquitous, unseen force. LBJ fears and loathes Bobby so much that he despairs Bobby winning the senate seat from New York, even as it consolidates LBJ’s majority in the Senate.

Walking home after the show my head swam in the permutations of intrigue, blackmail, and double-crossing LBJ and his contemporaries went through to pass the Civil Rights Act of 1964 and launch The Great Society.  Lyndon relished the political game so much that his machinations supersede his purpose.  In the frantic, heady days after JFK’s assassination, the accidental president states a commitment to civil rights, but it is secondary to his passion for political chess.  The play jumps well beyond the old question of whether the end justifies the means. The end appears to be nothing more than a distant marker selected because it will ensure a convoluted means.  Almost fifty years later LBJ’s means are little more than historical footnotes and fodder for excellent theater, while the actual product of his effort transformed American society forever.

All the Way

 

All the Way plays at the A.R.T. in Cambridge, MA through October 12, 2013, but don’t bother trying to get tickets – it is sold out.

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