Smile When They Least Expect It

While I was on my cycling trip I learned to ride defensively, acknowledging every oncoming driver on a quiet road, nodding and smiling at every driver coming into to a right turn situation so that I knew I was seen.  I noticed that when I did this not only did I get people’s attention; I usually got a smile in return.

Now, back in Boston where public smiles are rare as snow in Hawaii, I have kept up my habit.  Sometimes I still get a smile
in return. More often I get a look of shocked amazement that turns into a positive reaction, and at the most extreme, the driver shoots me a frown of doubt, as if he is using all of his mental powers to figure out what I am up to.  Little does he know that I am up to
nothing except savoring a lingering moment of my summer adventure.

Posted in Bicycle Journey 2011 | 3 Comments

Fortune Cookie

Americans are most fortunate.  We get the lion’s share of the three billion fortune cookies produced (manufactured, baked?) in the world every year.  That is almost ten
fortune cookies per American.  I certainly
get my ten a year, maybe more, as I love Chinese food and always read, then eat,
my fortune cookie.

Back in graduate school, during a group dinner at Joyce Chen’s Small Eating Place on Mass Ave in Cambridge I got a fortune that I accepted as providence.  It was late May; we were working round the clock in Giancarlo deCarlo’s studio.  He was a stickler for presentation; all drawings had to be ink, which in those days meant Radiograph pens that clogged and bled in arbitrary patterns. Our
final review was two days off and I had plenty of lines left to draw when I opened the fortune, ‘No amount of talk can replace good, black ink.’  You may be sure that I did not linger over coffee but got right back to my drafting board.

Thirty-one years passed since I received that fortune, yet I still recall the exact words.  I have read hundreds since, though committed no others to memory.  I have adapted to the changing fortunes of fortune cookies, adding a Chinese word and lucky numbers on the back of the paper, and the lemon flavor craze of the
1980’s; I have learned that every fortune can be improve by tacking the two words ‘in bed’ to the end; and I still hold to my preference for passing the dish to my dining companions and accepting the last cookie as my fate.

During my bicycle trip this summer I became an aficionado of the all you can eat Chinese Buffet, about the only way to get unlimited food that is not all fried and actually includes vegetables.  I picked up lots of fortunes but I tucked the one I opened in Colonie, NY in my wallet; it is a keeper.

Today I sent my first query out for the small book that I wrote on my trip, and am now editing with a vengeance.  I spend six to eight hours each weekend day shaping words to better reflect my experience.  Part of why I do it is because I cannot relive my adventure enough, part of why I do it is because the most difficult aspect of reentry has been dealing with so many people and I savor the solitude, part of why I do it is because I get a sweet tickle from a well-crafted phrase.  But the main reason I do it is because I want
to share with others the wonder I witnessed on my journey.  I want to make the fortune I opened in Colonie become a reality,

‘You make people realize there exist other beauties in the world.’

Posted in Personal | 2 Comments

Back at Yoga

I am two weeks back at yoga and it is interesting how the body changes, first
rebelling from practice, and then acquiescing to my determination.

 

I was so sore the first three days back I could scarcely believe how much harder yoga was on my body than cycling.  I was completely stiff every morning, but dragged my body to class, got warmed up in
the heat and eked through the postures.  I have become stronger, so the postures that require leg strength, standing head to knee and my beloved awkward pose, are solid.  But I have become much less flexible and my balance is shoddy.

Finally, around day four, my body stopped aching, realizing that I was back at my routine six days a week.  Still, I did not feel the full blossom of my practice for over a week.  This weekend I had back to back stellar classes, so I feel my body is capable of doing the full yoga routine once again.

What is missing, though, is the mind component.  The state of being fully in the posture while my mind is free of my body is a distant memory.  Perhaps it will take one class for each I missed, perhaps it will take longer.  Since I signed up for another full year, I am confident it will come, and look forward to the day.

 

Posted in Yoga | Leave a comment

911 X 10

I was in the DC airport this week; airports always remind everyone of 911.  The weather was terrible, the flights delayed.  I was fortunate to nab a carrel with an outlet and a usable if slightly broken chair to work on my laptop.  A big man slouched against the workspace next to mine, chairless; a Hassidic Jew with a big beard and wide rim hat. Announcements of my flight stirred.  I powered down my computer.  The man looked at me.  “Would you watch this for a moment?” He asked quickly.  I barely heard what he said; nodded, assuming he wanted my seat.  But no, he walked away, leaving an iPhone recharging next to me.  I stared at it, watching the battery light dance.

I packed up my system and kept an eye on his phone.  I wondered how long he had observed me before deciding to trust me with this chore.  I wondered if the phone would explode.  I thought that if I died at the hands of an iPhone Hassidic terrorist that would be an all right way to exit life, quick at least.  I would rather die trusting someone than
being suspicious of them.  Suspicion is not in my nature.  Maybe that is why he trusted me with his iPhone. Maybe he is a master terrorist.  Maybe he pinned me for a sucker.  Then again, maybe he is just a Hassidic man with an iPhone out of power who needs to take a leak.  I didn’t like thinking these things, but I couldn’t help it. We all think this way now.  This is the legacy of 911.

The man came back. I nodded in recognition that his iPhone was safe, collected my things and walked to my gate.  A small
victory of humanity over terrorism.

________________________________________________________

My first piece of published writing was the article I wrote after my 911 experience at Yale New-Haven Hospital. I am including it in this post to add my voice to the millions today who are remembering.

WHERE WERE YOU ON 911? 

Paul E. Fallon  9/12/01

People have already begun to ask the question.  Where were you on the day the planes toppled the Towers?  Everyone will remember.  We’ll embellish our stories over time until the minutes surrounding 9:00 am on 9/11/01 become branded to our souls.  To remind ourselves that we are the lucky ones, still here to tell our tales.

I was at a meeting at Yale-NewHaven Hospital.  Every Tuesday I drive from Boston to New Haven to
review an ongoing project.  The first of four Intensive Care Units being renovated was slated to open in a week, and we
were haggling over details.   Trying to locate the slides for suction containers, adding a receptacle for the specimen
refrigerator, arguing why the signs were late.  A cellular beeper interrupted the meeting; we learned that a plane
crashed into one of the Twin Towers.  We took an appropriate pause, then quibbled over some TV brackets.  A second call revealed that the other tower was hit.  This bit of information caused an awkward gap, but we moved on to discuss the project schedule.  It was difficult to worry about a week gained or lost in construction while an icon of corporate America
was in flames.  The third call brought news that the towers had collapsed.  Instantly, the sixty miles between New Haven
and New York became mighty small.

We went to review the construction. The television in every patient room displayed the smoking remains of lower Manhattan while twenty construction workers adjusted faucets, hung robe hooks, and tested circuits.  There was dust everywhere, buckets of paint, and dangling wires; the sweet scent of citrus cleaner tinged with carpet adhesive.  But I know how much can be done during a final sprint of construction.  I thought we were in fair shape, until the
hospital’s project manager arrived and announced that they were going to open the unit that day in order to accept patients from New York.

Within an hour fifty or sixty people filled the space. Construction equipment went into non-essential rooms, union workers took up brooms and mops, an army in scrubs began wiping down every surface, and the parade of stuff started rolling in.  There were beds, tables, supply carts, paper towels, sterile gowns, latex gloves, bed pans, specimen cups, bandages, splints, and tape.  That was the easy stuff.  Next came the syringes, lotions, shelf medications, prescription drugs, and burn supplies.  Any burn supplies available.  A carpenter installed the suction slides we thought lost that morning, an orderly made up a bed, an electrician screwed on
the final cover plates, and a guy on a ladder hung the privacy curtain.

Then there was the technology.  A cart load of monitors, dozens of computers, a conference table piled with phones, and a band of computer geeks thrilled by the challenge of getting the unit up and running in a few hours.  A group on ladders tested the intercom.  A third team booted the
air handling system and tested the pressure within the unit to isolate patients with contagious disease.

By two o’clock, evidence of building construction had disappeared from the ICU as completely as the Twin Towers had vanished from the world’s most famous skyline.  By evening all the supplies would be organized and the electronics working; the ICU would be ready for business.

I visited the World Trade Center once with my children, on a sunny day not unlike 911 of 2001.  We could have been crushed.  A friend of mine flew from Boston to LA on the tenth , missing by one calendar digit an early death.  Fortunately for me, on the day of terror I was not in New York, but in New Haven,  playing a small part in a transformation born of crisis; where the hourly employee and the salaried manager, the scrub tech and the Head Nurse, the hard hat and the high-tech all came together to complete in a few hours a feat that would have been laudable in a week.

There is much about America that is imperfect.  Our political system is impure, yet it is more democratic than most.  Our economic system is unfair, yet it offers more opportunity than any other.  We have shameful racism and bigotry, yet immigrants from all over the world pour onto our shores.  We have myriad problems, yet we have the luxury of debating them openly.  Some say we are overly content, untested, and no match for The Greatest Generation, yet it is only under fire that we can truly be tested.

We are under fire now, by terrorists who harbor hatred beyond comprehension, and our actions will reveal if we can prove ourselves.  Not for the sake of history or for the sake of revenge, but to ensure the freedoms we enjoy and the communities we cherish.  On 911 of 2001 I witnessed a community come together and perform extraordinarily well under fire.  It was a good place to be on a very bad day.

Posted in United States | Leave a comment

Bike Trip Epitaph – Guiding Principles

I am home now.  I slept in my own bed, I went back to yoga, I took my housemate out to my favorite restaurant; I did some repairs for my tenants.  Tomorrow I return to work.  I think if my email inbox exceeds 1,000 messages that will be reason enough to quit my job outright, catch a flight to Denver, and do it all over again.

But I have a trip to DC later this week and one to Albany the next; it won’t be long until the old pattern of daily life becomes the new pattern of daily life and the pattern of pedaling evaporates into memory.  I do not despair because even though my tan will fade and my legs will never be so sexy again, my pedaling will always be imprinted in me.

Over the past seven weeks I spent a lot of time riding my bike, but I spent almost as much time writing stories of my journey.  First there were the daily stories on this blog; where I went, what I ate, the characters I met.  But there is another tale, one that grew slowly at first and then consumed me even more than the cycling.  It is the story of what my mind was doing while my legs were spinning, how my trip fit into the context of the larger issues of the summer of 2011, the national debate on the debt ceiling, the reduced US bond rating, and the ensuing the stock market roller coaster.

That tale has taken the form of a small book.  I finished the first draft as I finished my vacation and plan to pedal it for publication in some form.  Since my blog readers have been my constant companions on the journey, I want to offer any who may be interested the opportunity to read the draft, and I welcome any comments, from the overall concept to the misplaced comma, that my beloved readers may want to offer.

If you are interested in reading the draft of Guiding
Principles – Observations on America at Ten Miles per Hour
, please contact me by email at paulefallon@yahoo.com.  I will send a copy to anyone who is
interested next weekend.  Before you jump up and yell, “Send it to me!”, please consider the following.  Please do not request the draft unless you actually plan to read it.  If you plan to read it and comment, please do so by October 1, as some of the material is timely and I will be looking for publication soon.  If I have interested readers from the Boston
area, we may be able to meet in person to discuss everyone’s comments.  Given those parameters, I welcome anyone interested to participate.

I have attached the draft synopsis of the book to provide an idea of content, though regular blog readers already know some of the stories.

Thanks to the thousands of hits I received during my journey. Knowing that I would blog everyday kept my observations keen and gave context to my effort.  I will continue blogging, but will return to my former practice of posting about once a week.   Less on cycling, more about Haiti and yoga and this crazy place we call the United States.

__________________________________________

Synopsis of

Guiding Principles

Observations on America at Ten Miles per Hour

by Paul E. Fallon, 123 pages

 

During the summer of 2011, while the United States debated its debt ceiling, lost a notch of bond rating and witnessed a stock market roller coaster, I rode my bicycle from Denver, CO to Cambridge, MA.  As I rode, the dissonance between the antics in Washington, DC and the solid efforts I observed in my fellow citizens compelled me to consider that our political system has ceased working in our best interests.

As an architect who specializes in designing large scale hospital projects, I use a process called ‘Guiding Principles’ to help clients achieve their objectives by bringing together all constituents, finding areas of aligned interest and developing solutions that maximize everyone’s desires. It is a positively
focused, win-win approach to optimizing design solutions; diametrically opposite the partisan posturing, media bickering, and finger pointing emanating from our nation’s capital.

Over a meandering 3,000 miles through eleven states I wondered how a guiding principles approach could be applied to our nation’s challenges. The unique character of each state I visited prompted me to consider a range of issues, from our food production system to education, from foreign policy to clean government, from aging infrastructure to healthcare, and of course, the economy and the implications of our ever expanding national debt.

Guiding Principles is a travelogue of our national challenges and opportunities observed through the lens of the bountiful land and resilient Americans I met on my journey.  It does not provide solutions so much as posit our critical issues in basic terms, and offer a strategy to address them in a way that will lead to appropriate and meaningful resolution.

At ten miles an hour the world looks different.  The subtleties of our landscape and our national character are easier to
discern, while the latest media buzz sparks, flashes and dies without ever infecting the mind.  With nothing but two
wheels, two pedals, two water bottles and two saddlebags, the world is simple and there is ample time for truly important things rise in the mind.

The book takes a critical look at the problems we confront and then identifies the strengths we possess to resolve them in positive ways.  It is the story of the characters I met along
the road, it is a wakeup call for respect and understanding in our national debate, it is honest about our shortcomings but optimistic that they can be eclipsed by our potential.  It is an anthem to America and how we all benefit when each individual finds his voice in its song.

 

 

 

Posted in Bicycle Journey 2011 | 2 Comments

Bike Trip Day 46 – 9/3/11 – Amherst, MA to Cambridge, MA

Start:  Amherst, MA

Finish: Cambridge, MA

Weather:  85 degrees, sunny

Miles:  89

Distance to date: 3,050

Today was one of choice – do I bite the bullet and go all the way home or do I spread the trip out one more day just to savor it.  Ultimately, I did a bit of both.

 

I slept late at Andy’s place and did not get on the road until nine.  It was a clear morning, but the heat and humidity were rising.  I travelled along Route 9 through Belchertown and along the fine stretch outside of Quabbin Reservoir, then dipped into Ware to have breakfast at the Ware Café.  This is the same route I took last May when I pedaled to Amherst as a test ride before committing to the full run.  It was amazing how much I recalled, this unusual house, that odd sign.  (How about ‘Enjoy your drive through wedding here’, a sign in front of a house in Belchertown).

After breakfast I continued on Route 9, which is really wonderful through the Brookfields, (West Brookfield, Brookfield, East Brookfield) and into Spencer, where I took a McDonald’s Internet stop to check email and post yesterday’s
blog. I left there at two with 40 miles down and thought if I saw an interesting place I would stop.  I didn’t find any vintage motels but I did see the entire world selling their wares on their lawn – I never saw so many yard sales in my life. I kept pedaling into Worcester where I discovered yet another of my all-time favorites –a Chinese buffet!  I went in, had a sumptuous lunch, and by 4:30 was so energized by such great food I decided to push on home.

It was a lovely evening and once I hit Marlboro was mostly downhill through Sudbury and Weston.  I was pushing 15-18
mph and knew that my body was ready for the home bed.  I got home a little after 7:30 pm.  First thing I did was shave the gruesome beard.  Second thing was notice that when
I cycled the same route last spring I was exhausted when I returned. Today, it was just another ride.  Guess I will have
to go somewhere on the bike tomorrow.

3,050 miles total from Denver to Cambridge – a very convoluted route!

 

Posted in Bicycle Journey 2011 | 6 Comments

Bike Trip Day 45 – 9/2/11 – Lenox, MA to Amherst, MA

Start:  Lenox, MA

Finish: Amherst, MA

Weather:  70 degrees, sunny

Miles:  55

Distance to date: 2,961

Ah, Massachusetts.  The landscape is
beautiful. The people cold, the drivers are vicious, the food is intricate, the portions are small.  Welcome home.

The ride from Pittsfield to Amherst was one of the most beautiful of the entire trip, a long rise through the charming town of Dalton up the plateau at Windsor, then a long winding down for six miles or so alongside the Westfield River roaring over rocks, rippling over beds of smooth pebbles.  Eventually the river turned south and the road rised again for several miles  to the town of Goshen and took a long, narrow downhill through tall trees into Williamsburg, Florence and Northampton.  I stopped for lunch at a local café and had a turkey and swiss with coleslaw on fresh baked toast with a side of fries; delicious but a drop in the belly after 40 miles.

Downtown Northampton was buzzing with incoming Smith College students, off beat locals and  women pushing strollers; the busiest downtown I have seen. I took the rail trial over the Connecticut (murky brown and full of Irene debris from Vermont) into Amherst and cycled on to Andy’s place.  He has a great house with three buddies very close to campus.  We all
went out to a terrific barbeque place with a hot/cold bar so I filled up on incredible collard greens, beans, local grown hickory potatoes (locally grown is de rigour here) and slaw to go with the brisket.  It made up for the paltry lunch.

Andy and I shared stories of the road and the Appalachian Trail until I was exhausted and fell into bed when he and his buddies went out to the bars.

Fields of Hadley, MA

Posted in Bicycle Journey 2011 | Leave a comment

Bike Trip Day 44 – 9/1/11 – Colonie NY to Lenox, MA

Start:  Colonie NY

Finish: Lenox, MA

Weather:  70 degrees, partly sunny

Miles:  50

Distance to date: 2,906

I woke today to beautiful skies, took my time leaving the very nice EconoLodge and headed down Central Avenue in Albany, a street I know very well from all my visits to that city.  I realized that I was not seeing things very close – assuming I knew the place, but once again, when I took the time to see the world at bike speed it was different.

Up, up over the Hudson, down into Renseleer and then climbing again.  I had not done hills in some time and today was day one of the Berkshires, many good climbs and some good down hills as well.  I saw a few swollen streams and
some quite towns, and then climbed Shaker Mountain to come over to Massachusetts, sailed past Hancock Shaker Village and into Pittsfield.

I found a terrific place for the night, a charming little motel with a huge room and a very refreshing swimming pool.  A
delightful way to start September.

Emergency repair trucks at EconoLodge Colonie, NY

Posted in Bicycle Journey 2011 | 1 Comment

Bike Trip day 43 – 8/31/11 – Schuyler, NY to Colonie, NY

Start:  Schuyler, NY

Finish: Colonie NY

Weather:  75 degrees, sunny

Miles:  85

Distance to date: 2,856

Everything on the bike happens a little slower than by other modes.  Today, several days after the event, I finally met up with Irene.  She was quite a gal, that storm.

 

Last night I was checking out my route and calling possible motel locales with an eye on Amsterdam, NY.  A very nice desk clerk told me he was fully booked, the other hotels in town had no power and the roads were closed.  He gave me the NY emergency web address which I checked to discover that all bridges over the Schoharie Creek, including the Thruway and I-88 were closed except the bridge at Route 20.  I found the Schoharie, which runs north about 30 miles east of Albany and right through Amsterdam.  I discovered I could reroute along US 20, though the traffic would be gruesome with all other roads down.  I also had a fantasy to fulfill along Route 5.  I decided to sleep on it and deal in the morning.

The morning was beautiful with a halo of fog nestled in the Mohawk Valley.  No changes to the emergency internet site,
but I knew I had Route 20 as a back-up so I took off.  I left Schuyler and headed along the Mohawk Valley when around a corner, my fantasy came at me.  Those of you who are regular blog readers may recall that back in Eastern Colorado I described riding through the endless plains as the mental image that filled my mind as I contemplated this trip. A second image, right along the NY Thruway, was the one that actually propelled my decision to ride.  This spring, on a
drive from Canandaigua to Albany (VA client to AMC client) I saw a cyclist heading east along a stretch of road parallel to the Thruway, passing an old fashioned dairy bar and a vintage motel.  That image stuck with me; I wanted to be the guy on the bike instead of the suit on the Thruway.  And today, after 2,800 miles, I was that guy.  I cycled past the same dairy bar and motel.  Maybe someone on the Thruway will change their life because they saw me riding by.  I will never know, just as the guy who inspired me will never know.  We are not supposed to know in life how our actions affect others, but they do.  It was the mystical kind of morning that hatches such thoughts.

I stopped at Mona’s in Herkimer for breakfast.  The first day ever a cafe had more women than men. You go, girls of New
York!  I fell in love with the waitress and she assured me that Route 5 was open the whole way, so I gave her a great tip, even though she put butter on my toast, which I hate.

Today was the Mohawk Valley, end to end, a gentle sweep of land that goes east to west, contrary to the predominant direction of the Appalachian Mountains. It has been a
major route west for centuries, and as I travelled I realized that my progress has been history writ backwards.   Today
was the first time I saw markers and artifacts of the Revolutionary War, as well as some from the French and Indian War. Settlers came here in the 1740’s, more than a hundred years after settlement in Boston, but more than a hundred years before settlement in Colorado.  I saw wonderful old forts and homesteads and gorgeous churches.

The Palatine Lutheran Church is like none I have ever seen.  It is a golden rectangle in plan, instead of long and narrow, and the entrance is in the middle of the wide side, with the lectern immediately opposite.  It is more theater in the round than alter and nave.  It has an original thirteen star flag that is amazing.  It was completely open, no one on site, so I had time to dally and observe.

At Palatine I decided, lunch in the next town.  Bad call.  Fonda had nothing but a Cumberland Farms, and next came Amsterdam.  Poor Amsterdam.  Irene came ashore here and
left a layer of mud over the entire river bed and highway. When I got close to town I shifted up to a parallel street. The west side of town was shabby, downtown was derelict, and the east side was worse. There was not a place to eat or even get a drink where I felt safe to stop in the whole city, and I am pretty intrepid.  Even if there had been a room at the hotel, I would not have stayed in that town. So now it is 2:30 pm and I
am hungry and Schenectady is fourteen miles away so I shoulder one, but it also derelict.  I had already identified motels in Colonie / Albany and by this time my hunger was past caring, so I just pedaled and, like a miracle out of the East, I saw the Dragon Buffet. I love Chinese buffets!  This one was awesome with sushi and Peking duck and the best pork with mushrooms I have ever had.  Suffice to say, after riding 70 miles since breakfast, they lost money on me.

Back to Irene.  As I travelled east I could hear each stream rushing faster and see each creek running higher.  The shore roads off Route 5 were barricaded, no riding on the tow path today.  Outside of Amsterdam the grass was matted brown and the mud on the highway had dried, leaving a fine dust that kicked up behind every car.  I wished I had a filter mask to wear.  A gracious, historic, two story river mansion had collapsed and police crews were monitoring access.  Even curious cyclists were not allowed too close.  West of Amsterdam the Mohawk was still and brown.  At Canal Lock 10 (there are 59 in total) and the waterfall that aligns with it, the river was clogged with all sorts of debris that had been pulled downstream and stuck in the pylons of the railroad bridge above. It was eerie to see the aftermath of so much
force while the river was so calm.

Tonight I am cozy in my EconoLodge.  Albany has tons
of wicked cheap hotels.  The budget chains have driven the mom and pops places into offering efficiency apartments.
Who can compete with a full size room in a newer building with Internet for $59?

Palatine Church Exterior  Palatine, NY

Palatine Church Interior with original 13 star flag
Palatine, NY

 

Irene
Debris collected at Mohawk River Bridge
Amsterdam, NY

 

 

Posted in Bicycle Journey 2011 | 1 Comment

Bike Trip day 42 – 8/30/11 – Cicero, NY to Schuyler, NY

Start:  Cicero, NY

Finish: Schuyler, NY

Weather:  75 degrees, sunny

Miles:  58

Distance to date: 2,771

Just when you start to think, all I have to do is log miles to get home, you have a day of such unexpected perfection it seems like the trip is all new again.

 

I slept in at my beautiful room in Cicero, woke to the sun pouring in my window and took my time leaving.  I rode about
ten miles until coming upon Carol and Tony’s Diner in Lakeport.  The next time you are in Lakeport you HAVE to go here. The food was very good diner variety, but the waitresses make it worth the special trip.  There was a diner wide discussion on how to control your purse at the gaming tables. I think everyone had a comment while the waitresses went from table to table honeying you this and honeying you that.  About 9:30 a regular walks into the crowded diner and shouts ‘Doesn’t anybody work in this town?”  Obviously he did not see the waitresses who were working their tails off.

Full of hash and poached eggs and rye toast, I pedaled along Oneida Lake on the bike route, then saw a sign that the City of Oneida was off the lake, so I pursued.  I figured I should visit the Oneida Community as a counterpoint to New Harmony, IN.  The City of Oneida is a very typical Upstate place, seen better days but holding on pretty well.  I saw nothing about the Oneida Community, so stopped at the historical commission where a lady gave me directions several miles from town but in my general direction.

The Oneida Community was the longest operating Utopian community in the United States, from the 1830’s until the early 1900’s, when it spun itself off as the Oneida Corporation
and is still very profitable (Oneida stainless, among other things).  It was religious and communal, but unlike the celibate Rappists of New Harmony, Oneida believed in communal marriage and free love, though they only procreated on particular occasions, so there was a certain
amount of self-control required of the men.   They built a tremendous mansion with many wings where up to 200 people lived at their peak.  I had a wonderful self-guided tour.  Unlike New Harmony, Oneida is still very much functioning.  The tour took me through certain mansion spaces, but the rest is private condominiums and an operating Inn.

I left Oneida and headed towards Utica.  I had a craving for a Chinese buffet, but it got on 2:00 pm and I was very hungry so I stopped at Carmella’s Café, where I had amazing Potato Bacon soup and a Utica special, Chicken Riggi, which is pasta with chunks of chicken, pepper, olives and tomatoes.  I am not usually a pasta fan, but this was wonderful.

Utica was a drive-by.  Route 5 turns into a limited access highway, I missed where the bike route got detoured so I just stayed on the road and sailed through.  Not too pretty, but then what I could see of the side roads was not too pretty either.  Once on the other side of town I decided to look for a place to stop.  Route 5 is littered with little motels.  At my first stop the motel operator was talkative to the point of manic, too chatty and gossipy for my taste, so when she told me $75 for a basic strip motel room with no internet or breakfast or
even a convenience store in site, I backed myself out of there.  Good thing, too, because only a few miles down the road I came two motels opposite each other.  I steered into the Passport Inn instead of the Motel of Mirrors for obvious reasons. Passport is run by a sturdy Indian couple and for $50 I have a vintage room par excellence, no smoking, with Internet.  It doesn’t matter that the hot water is tepid, it’s summertime.

Through my entire trip I have wondered if perhaps some evening I will hit upon a local attraction. So far, nothing, but tonight I hit the jackpot.  Right next to the motel is Dave’s Diner and on Tuesday nights in the summer they have Classic Car night.  There are a hundred or more classic cars all
lined up, sparkling, with people parading around looking at them, eating burgers, listened to a DJ play ‘50’s music.  I had a stupendous black raspberry cone and took in the cars.  After I post this, I am considering going back for more.

There is not a cloud in the sky, the evening is warm and people’s spirits are full of summer.

Oneida Community ‘family room’ Oneida, NY

 

 

Classic cars at Dave’s Diner Schuyler, NY

Posted in Bicycle Journey 2011 | Leave a comment