Trip Log – Day 207 – Portal, AZ

McNeal to PortalJanuary 21, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 4

Miles to Date: 10,583

States to Date: 26

IMG_5534Rest day! My warmshowers host Ron is the Director of the Visitor’s Center at Coronado National Forest, the Bryce Canyon of Arizona. He took me on a personal tour of the public areas, which were near empty in January but so beautiful on a perfect clear day.

About five I pedaled the short distance between the dirt road to Ron’s house and the dirt road to ET’s house for an evening with my second Portal, AZ host. ET may be the most literate and well-informed cowboy on earth. Forty years of punching cattle, fighting wildfires and being a medic in a region with a lot of undocumented immigrant emergencies made for a thought-provoking evening of great stories.

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Trip Log – Day 206 – McNeal, AZ to Portal, AZ

McNeal to PortalJanuary 20, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 77

Miles to Date: 10,579

States to Date: 26

Today was a banner day for cycle touring. The weather was perfect for my long ride from McNeal to Portal, via Douglas, but I enjoyed many long, gentle descents and had the wind was at my back most of the day.

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I explored the town of Douglas, whose declining downtown is anchored by the Gadsen Hotel, named for the Ambassador to Mexico who added this area to the United States as part of the Gadsen Purchase of 1854. Douglas enjoyed a heyday as a smelting town for the nearby Bisbee copper mines, and has many vintage early twentieth century houses to mark that period of prosperity.

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The climb up Guadalupe Pass is a gentle six to eight miles along Arizona 80, followed by many more miles of gentle descents to the New Mexico border. I met a pari of heavy loaded cyclists heading the other direction and I stopped at the Geronimo Obelisk, commemorating the 1886 end of the Indian Wars. I pedaled over the state line to Rodeo, NM where I took a break at the cafe before veering back into Arizona to stay with my Portal host.

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With several more long days on the horizon it’s nice to fantasize that every long distance day could be this easy, but that’s unrealistic. Better to savor this one day gift of easy cycling.

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Trip Log – Day 205 –Bisbee, AZ to McNeal, AZ

Bisbee to McNealJanuary 19, 2016 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 27

Miles to Date: 10,502

States to Date: 26

Today I was a tourist! Spent the entire morning hanging out at the Copper Queen Hotel then emerged to explore Bisbee. I spent a few hours touring the galleries and great Western storefront architecture. I partcularly enjoyed Jason Kihl’s work at Metalmorphosis Gallery and talking with Vincent Wicks who stirred things up a bit at his new Vincente’s Fine Art Gallery with his show, Men… Nude, Naked and Undressed.

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IMG_5498I left town around three for the mostly downhill ride to McNeal. I stayed with father/son warmshowers hosts who live in a rural Quaker community in the gorgeous Sulpher Spring Valley.

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Trip Log – Day 204 – Benson, AZ to Bisbee, AZ

Benson to BisbeeJanuary 18, 2016 – Cloudy, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 51

Miles to Date: 10,475

States to Date: 26

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I woke to frost after ten hours of solid sleep, climbed out of my cozy motorhome and witnessed a glorious dawn. After a delicious breakfast with my hosts, I hit the road under full sun and a rising thermometer.

images-2Fifteen summers ago I traveled Arizona Route 80 in a motor home with my two grammar school age children and their cousin. We watched the staged gunfights in Tombstone’s OK Corral and toured Bisbee’s Copper Mine. Memories of that trip line my passage now. Tombstone without a ten-year-old boy seems more gimmicky than I recalled. But the landscape, at my much slower speed, seems more majestic.

By noon, the sun gave over to clouds. Beyond Tombstone, the broad plains with distant mountains begin to close in. The road undulates through hills and valleys, and up a gorgeous canyon. The north side of the canyon, which faces south, is red, rocky desert. The south side, in constant shade, is littered with deep green pines and an underlay of snow. At the road’s crest, near 6,000 feet, the road shifts to the shady side, Instantly, I was cold.

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IMG_5482Most people would say I’m frugal. Some might use less accommodating adjectives to describe my relationship to money. I like to think I’m judicious but know when to splurge on something truly dazzling. One glance at Bisbee’s mountainside Historic District convinced me it was worth staying at the Copper Queen Hotel, a nineteenth century eclectic Spanish painted lady where, at one time, true painted ladies plied their trade. The receptionist’s upturned curls and flower in one ear was the perfect period touch: classy, not touristy. The saloon, velvet sofas, pin-stripe wallpaper and creaky floors felt authentic. Apparently three ghosts inhabit the place. I think they have good taste.

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Trip Log – Day 203 – Tucson, AZ to Benson, AZ

Tucson to BensonJanuary 17, 2016 – Sunny, 65 degrees

Miles Today: 50

Miles to Date: 10,424

States to Date: 26

In keeping with Tucson’s sociability, my hosts Claire and Bob rode me out of town along The Loop, the city’s elaborate system of cycle paths. Beyond Tucson and Vail, Marsh Station Road proved to be one of the most striking stretches of desert terrain on my journey.

IMG_5461The mountains around Phoenix and Tucson are very different from what I am used to in the East or the Rockies. They pop out of the Sonoran Desert without any directional orientation. Bob explained the area is called ‘Sky Islands’ because each mountain cluster has a discrete ecology and microclimates vary as elevations rise. Certain plant and animal species are unique to one grouping because the plains between are too wide for species to mingle.

IMG_5463When Marsh Station Road joined I-10 for the ten-mile stint into Benson my practice of checking on anyone stopped by the side of the road proved beneficial. I passed an aging pick-up stranded on the shoulder. “Everything good, here/” The woman of the couple explained the truck overheated. “Do you have any water?” Turns out I did, and gave it to them. Nice to know a cyclist can help a motorist in distress.

I got to Benson in time for a few writing hours in the local McDonald’s, which proved to be a friendly place. I chatted with well-tanned winter visitors, an elderly woman helping her much older father sip his fountain drink, and a grandmother struggling between an infant in a high chair and a toddler insistent on sitting at a high-top. A guy with longish hair and maybe threIMG_5462e teeth told me that the local St. Vincent de Paul’s Society put up folks who are stranded. I thought about the couple in the pick-up, but then realized he was referring to me. Less than a week back on the road, and I must already be looking scruffy.

I stayed with a quiet man who lives on a spread outside of town and offers his motor home to touring cyclists. The night sky over the San Pedro River was rich in stars.

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Trip Log – Day 202 – Tucson, AZ

Screen Shot 2016-01-14 at 8.56.09 PMJanuary 16, 2016 – Sunny, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 23

Miles to Date: 10,374

States to Date: 26

IMG_5426 Tucson is a very social place; at least for this itinerant cyclist. My wonderful host Lucia took me on a sunrise hike up Tumamoc Hill where we took in the desert and worked up an appetite for breakfast burritos with her childhood friend Zaida.

IMG_5441After a cycling tour through downtown, The Presdio, the funky Fourth Street District (where Surly discovered her own bar) and the University of Arizona, I made my way to the Northeast part of town for lunch with Carol and Eulee, two friends of my Boston friend Perry whom I can now count as friends of my own.

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In late afternoon I pedaled to Far Horizons where I stayed with Claire and Bob Rogers, a pair of intrepid cyclists who have logged over 40,000 all around the world, including cycling the Himalayas! Between trips, they home base at this 55+ RV Park. Fortunately, it was Saturday dance night. Over a hundred seniors gathered in the club house for line dances, swing, tango, waltzes and even a couple of polkas. Given the ratio of widows to single men, I had a pretty full dance card all night.

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Trip Log – Day 201 – Casa Grande, AZ to Tucson, AZ

Screen Shot 2016-01-14 at 8.56.09 PMJanuary 15, 2016 – Cloudy, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 62

Miles to Date: 10,351

States to Date: 26

IMG_5415A chilly, grey morning lingered into a chilly grey day. Twelve miles on I came to Eloy, a desolate place with a near-empty Main Street. All the action was at Food Town, where bakers and stockers and cashiers all chatted with the customers. Despite having a full breakfast, I tanked up on mango yogurt, a banana and a pair of Mexican Sweetbreads. I could add a bumper sticker to my bike: I stop for Panaderia.

Outside of town I connected with the I-10 frontage road. Despite traffic whizzing past 100 yards away, the road was my solitary space, a straight and steady rise with the wind in my face for 32 miles. This situation connects me with the Zen, the yoga of cycling. For the first few miles I push against the reality that for the next few hours I have nothing to do but pedal. I shift in my saddle and check my odometer’s every click. My mind calculates and recalculates. How far have I gone? When will I get to the Exit 244? I invent games to pass the time.

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At some point the mental gymnastics dissipate. I resign myself to pedaling. Nothing changes. The mountain in the distance remains fixed and unattainable. The landscape is too big to register my slow progress. The wind is too steady for me to feel its variation. The grade is too slight to discern any rise or fall.

Finally, out of that space where nothing changes, I stop thinking about time or progress. Everything becomes hyper alive; the smallest wind shift, the shallowest pavement dip. The immovable distance I must cross vanishes. The struggle of time passing evaporates. I simply breathe where I am.

IMG_5422Long stretches are perfect for singing. My repertoire is triggered by whatever passes; a car, a sign, a bird. I come to Red Rock, which is nothing more than a stretch of railroad and rudimentary interchange. Immediately I recall Song for Martin by Judy Collins. It begins, “In Red Rock Arizona he lived for many years alone…” It’s been twenty years or more since I sang the fragile poem of a not-quite friend’s suicide. But lyrics stick to memory like oatmeal to our gut; I remembered every line. The song resonates even more haunting rolling across this blank expanse where so many years ago someone Judy wished she knew better took his final breath.

imgresThe wind, the slope, the landscape, and my mood all turn around in Marana, Tucson’s northwestern exurb. My steady climb becomes a gentle decline. The wind shifts from my head to my tail. The frontage road is littered with offbeat stores and construction yards. My spirits lighten as I approach my destination. At Twin Peaks Road I shift to the The Loop, Tucson’s extensive bicycle ring path. I’m released from the Interstate’s throb. I ride a wide paved path lined with Ironweed and Mesquite, scrub cactus and sharp rock until I reach my destination.

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Trip Log – Day 199 – Goodyear, AZ to Tempe, AZ

Screen Shot 2016-01-14 at 8.55.21 PMJanuary 13, 2016 – Sun, 60 degrees

Miles Today: 38

Miles to Date: 10,218

States to Date: 26

Today was the ultimate demonstration of my route’s inefficiency. I spun a complete U-turn and ended up exactly where I began yesterday. Fourth graders west of Phoenix wanted to talk with me on Tuesday. College professors at Arizona State invited me on Wednesday. I pedal where my question takes me.

imgresArizonans do not reset their clocks. The state is on Pacific Standard Time in the summer and Mountain Standard Time in the winter. That means January mornings are dark. Given the desert, they’re also cold. I headed out of Goodyear at first light, which is not until 7:00 a.m. Frost glistened on car windshields. I coffeed up at Circle K; they are ubiquitous here. I rolled toward the sun, warmer with every breath.

IMG_5389The affluent cities surrounding Phoenix have wide, straight roads lined with eight foot high masonry walls that hide tawny stucco houses with red tile roofs spun along curlicue streets. The main arteries are monotonous. I prefer Phoenix proper, which includes most of the distance from Goodyear to Tempe. Poorer neighborhoods are more interesting. Houses are less precious, tchotchke’s hang all over them. More dogs chase me in barrios, but most are small. Little Napoleons run after me for half a block, though they can’t even reach my heel.

I travelled through the city’s bowels. On Lower Buckeye Road, the county prison is across from the dump, which is next to the wastewater treatment plant, an industrial area, scrap yards, and the bus terminus, where the striking drivers were picketing in force. A pungent no-man’s land.

imgresI knew Arizona State University as the nation’s foremost online college educator. Along my journey, several people suggested it’s in the forefront of other educational innovations, so I was pleased when several ASU faculty and staff agreed to talk with me about tomorrow. A university with a School of Sustainability, a School of Public Service and Community Solutions, and a School of the Future of Innovation in Society has got tomorrow on its mind.

IMG_5392I had fascinating discussions with a variety of folks there (profiles to come!) but was so dazed after my last interview, I camped out in the Student Union to organize my notes. Luck led me the Changemaker Central, a student run lounge dedicated to service opportunities: Teach for America, Peace Corps, and the like; a welcome complement to the Armed Services Recruitment Centers on many campuses.

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I stayed with a cool group of undergraduates in a splashy student apartment: four-bedrooms, two baths, sunset views and a pool. No matter that I was three times their age, we did what college students everywhere do: stayed up too late talking about everything.

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Trip Log – Day 198 – Tempe, AZ to Goodyear, AZ

Screen Shot 2016-01-14 at 8.54.38 PMJanuary 12, 2016 – Sun, 55 degrees

Miles Today: 38

Miles to Date: 10,180

States to Date: 26

Back on the road again…

Getting back on my bike required a slew of transportation modes. Seems like I used everything except automobiles. During the eight weeks I was home visiting family, doing construction projects, and gaining ten pounds eating my housemate’s incredible cooking, Landry’s Cycles in Tempe refurbished Surly. When they called to confirm the repairs they explained the kind lady from the airport did, indeed, deliver the bike lock that TSA rejected when I flew home in November. Therefore, first thing I did upon landing at Sky Harbor Airport was to check information. Sure enough, Glenda was working. I had the pleasure of thanking her in person and feeling that my trip’s good mojo was intact after my hiatus.

imgres-1Glenda explained that the Metro Valley bus drivers were on strike. Light rail was running as usual and managers were operating buses on half schedule. My motel was near the trolley, but I rose early the next morning (jet lag and all) so had plenty of time to make slow bus connections. There was no sight of the Sixteenth Street bus and I am too impatient to sit on a cold bench in the dark (sun rise is very late in Phoenix this time of year). I decided to walk between stops and keep an eye out for the bus.

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The neighborhood proved fascinating, full of cool murals. My walk became a hike. No buses ever came. Ultimately I walked full eight miles to Southern Blvd. But the morning was crisp and bright. I had all kinds of time, and just one pannier on my shoulder. Still, I was glad the eIMG_5375astbound 61 came along Southern Blvd and transported me ten miles to Landry’s. Distances in Phoenix are crazy long. Eighteen miles in Boston would get me near the I-495 outer loop. In Phoenix, eighteen mile is just a portion of the seemingly endless gird of wide roads.

Surly! It was so great to be reunited with my bike. She’s practically new: new wheels, tires, bearings, derailleur, chain, sprocket, you name it. Thank goodness bike repairs run about 10% of car repairs. We didn’t have time to dawdle because I had a 2:00 p.m. presentation at a charter school in Goodyear – a mere 34 miles.

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Beside being immense, Phoenix is also pancake flat and easy to navigate. The sprits gave me a tailwind. I was so pleased to be back on the bike I covered the distance without a break. I arrived at BASIS Goodyear in time for a tour before a raucous hour talking about my trip and my question to some of the most engaging ten year olds I’ve ever met. I answered every lingering question (my favorite: Do you carry soap?) and talked with faculty. By the time I realized I forgot to eat lunch, it was already four.

downloadNo problem. I took my short ride to my hosts, Becca and Mike Beaulieu. I’m pretty good at logistics, but their coordination skills dazzled me. Mike is the Operations Manager at the brand new BASIS Goodyear, Becca teaches kindergarten there. Daughter Elena attends BASIS. Son, Nolan, is just three months old, in his second day of home day care since Becca returned to work. And, they just moved to a new house. Nonplussed by anything, they invited me to stay with them. Becca made a delicious dinner, while supporting baby Nolan on her hip. Afterwards Mike and I played with Candy Land with Elena. It seemed appropriate that I came in last. After all, I am colorblind.

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The Value of an Older Brother

vitruvian_man-001I suppose younger brothers have their merits. Bill Fallon, who turns 65 today, had three of them. Pete, a year younger, was his buddy. They shared friends, sports, and were comrades in crime and prank. I was four years junior, a tagalong kid too small to be useful in play, but an easy target. Tim was a dozen years younger than eldest Bill, which practically put him in another generation. Tim was our mascot, our toy.

Bill never received the value of having an older brother. On a day-to-day basis, older brother’s wreck havoc in a young boy’s life. Bill and Pete punched, flicked, and teased me constantly. But every once in a while, my older brother could do things that justified all my pain.

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Bill always had flair and style beyond his means. The summer I was in seventh grade, he owned a Porsche. The chronology of this makes no sense, since he would have still been in high school in a town where few high school boys owned cars, let along Porsches. But I know for truth he owned a vintage Porsche, because he gave me the ride of my life.

Middle school was time to ask girls out on dates. I was horrified by the whole idea, but if there ever was an eager conformist, that was me. I called Gale Gibadlo and asked her out to a movie. Yikes, she said yes. My palms started sweating the moment I put down the phone. For the next four days I worried about every possible problem. What would I say to her? What if I popped a zit? Did I have to hold her hand throughout the entire movie? Wouldn’t the armrest get in the way?

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After my second sleepless night I realized entirely new problems – logistical ones. Gale lived four miles away; the movie theater was in the opposite direction. How was I going to pick her up and deliver her back home? I couldn’t take my bike.

I was stowed away in the basement, quivering on my balance board doing my eye strengthening exercises, when Billy popped downstairs. “Why are you so quiet, Shorty?” We lived in a house where silence was a sin, if not a downright crime. I was so worried about my upcoming date (which I considered to be nothing less than the inevitable nuptial bond between Gale and me, though I hardly knew her and wasn’t at all sure I liked her). I told Bill my dilemma. “No problem, Shorty, I’ll drive.”

Immediately, my palms dried. Two days later we showed up at Gale’s in Bill’s Porsche convertible. She was impressed. My cheerful chauffeur picked up the small talk whenever the conversation lagged. Since it was a two-seater, Gale had to sit on my lap, which seemed appropriately intimate. I had never been so close to a girl. I’m sure she felt the uncontScreen Shot 2015-12-12 at 2.35.14 PMrollable lap pressure thirteen-year-old boys endure all day and most nights. I figured she’d take it as a compliment.

Thanks to Bill, the date was a complete success. Gale and I went out a few more times that summer. The first girl I kissed tasted like lanolin. We never gained enough traction to bother breaking up; I have no idea where she is now. In keeping with his feast or famine manner, Bill lost the Porsche. He had other cars; lost a few of them as well. Nothing remains of my first date but memory, and gratitude for having an older brother.

 

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