The Awkward Pose

Start:  Erie, PA

Finish: Fredonia, NY

Weather:  90 degrees, sunny

Miles:  54

Distance to date: 2,462

Another gorgeous day along the shore of Lake Erie.  Traveling north and east from Erie, the lake shore develops bluffs.  In North East, PA (which is actually in northwestern PA; go figure) the higher ground is full of vineyards.  To the left they march to the lake, to the east, they are the foreground for a landscape of distant hills and church steeples.  One could easily pass off a postcard of the scene as a setting in Europe.  Over the NY line the terrain gets hilly.  The brooks in the hollows are stepped with ledge that creates cascading waterfalls.  Niagara is not too far away.  In the village of Barcelona I took an extended break, the waves crashing into the rocks at the base of the cliffs are dramatic

I arrived at Dunkirk, my planned stop for the day, to find that the town was run down to the point of creepy and the two independent motels shabby and remote form any services.  Begrudgingly I pedaled
out to the I-90 / US 20 interchange in Fredonia, which has the usual array of franchises.  The Days Inn seemed to be the most modest hotel along the strip, so I went to McDonald’s, logged onto their Wi-Fi, and used Priceline to get a sweet deal on the Days Inn.  I felt a twinge of compromised principle, but even though I love vintage motels, there are times when they are too sketchy for comfort.

Actually, I have gotten used to a cluster of franchise amenities on my trip.  I had been to Wal-Mart only once prior to this adventure, now I have been to so many I know how the stores are organized.  In small towns Wal-Mart is the only game in town for bicycle tubes and power bars.  I have also become very fond of the free Wi-Fi at McDonald’s.  I will get a soft drink or an ice cream cone and use it for hours.  I don’t eat their food, but I love their Internet access. The other franchise I frequent is Subway. Subways are everywhere, much more common than McDonald’s.  Since they don’t require specific buildings as other franchises do, they fit everywhere.  Every crossroads seems to have a Subway, and if the food is unremarkable, at least it is healthy.  Subway is my default when no good local food is available.  Now I have discovered Priceline.  The undertow of the franchise culture is tugging at my being.

Not to worry too much.  There is a terrific old fashioned burger stand next to the McDonald’s in Fredonia.  That is where I am eating dinner.

Lighthouse Barcelona, NY

Start:  Conneaut, OH

Finish: Erie, PA

Weather:  85 degrees, sunny

Miles:  50

Distance to date: 2,408

The morning was clear and cool; I hopped right on my bike and rode 25 miles to the most perfect non-breakfast spot.   Teresa’s Deli on the outskirts of Erie puts Subway to shame.  A sausage, pepper and onion sub, grilled to perfection, with a giant Reese’s cup cookie at 9:30 am may not be everyone’s idea of breakfast, but it works for a hungry cyclist.  The best sub I have had all trip; proof that I am moving East.

Pennsylvania has very well marked cycling routes, so it was easy to follow the shore road along Route 5 and Alt 5.  I visited the Tom Ridge Environmental Center at the entrance to Presque Isle State Park, a glacial moraine peninsula that provides protection for Erie Harbor.  The fifteen mile bike route around the park is picturesque and historical; I learned all about Commodore Perry and the
Battle of Lake Erie during the War of 1812.  On the lake side I stopped at a beach.  The waters were too rough for actual swimming, but it was great body surfing.  The surf builds over several hundred miles of easterly winds and the undertow is fierce.

Back in town I toured Erie, a city of stately tree-lined boulevards and a fascinating promenade on a bluff overlooking the harbor.   The city seems to have survived the transition from industrial port to service city much better than its Ohio counterparts.

The area leading to Presque Isle is a 50’s motel paradise.  There must have been a dozen motel courts of different styles, all with swimming pools. I had already scoped out a motel downtown that proved to be a great place.  I arrived about 3:30, had a refreshing swim in the pool, and got to
explore downtown Erie on foot at dinner time, where I found an excellent gyro place.

My computer is back to working 100%, so the time spent in the Conneaut Library yesterday had its value. Still, I am happy to be back to full time touring.

Penn State Fever is Rampant in PA

Start:  Geneva, OH

Finish: Conneaut, OH

Weather:  80 degrees, sunny

Miles:  34

Distance to date: 2,358

At ten this morning I was sitting on a bluff overlooking a beautiful beach on a day that was warming up.  My ride had been glorious, through the most beautiful stretches of the North Coast to date.  It was a chilly 55 degrees at 7:30 am but the sun warmed me as I rode through charming Ashtabula and long stretches of road beside the lake.  I was constantly amazed at how the farms and forests marched right up to the lake, as if surprised it was there.  Houses right on the shore are indifferent to the giant body of water.  They face the road just like all the other
farmhouses.

I asked a passing walker if there was a motel in town, she referred me to Lakefront Motel.  I decided it was time to take a short day and stay in Conneaut, so I opened my computer to write before heading over the motel.  The screen was black. Odd, I thought, as I remembered being at full charge.  I went to a café for a snack to see if it needed recharging.  No change.  Realizing a problem, I went to the local library, called Dell Support, and wound up spending five hours on line with support in India while my computer was rebuilt half a continent away.

It was not my idea of how to spend the day, but I got out by 4:30, checked into the charming motel with a lake view, got a refreshing swim in Lake Erie, and had an early dinner of Lake Erie perch, which is very tasty.

Odd as it is to say this, I am getting tired of having to eat so much.  I started the day with a pair of bananas, a power bar and a package of Little Debbie donuts.  For my ‘snack’ I had a cup of chili and tuna
sandwich.  While looking for the Conneaut Library I stopped at a bakery for directions and had an exquisite apple strudel.  While working with the folks from India, I had another power bar.  Then I had my fresh perch for dinner.  That should be plenty of food, but my stomach growled like crazy until around 7:00 pm I found
a convenience store and had a cocoanut popsicle and a package of pecan rolls.  I know I deserve zero empathy for this problem but sometimes refueling is exhausting.

Beach at Conneaut, OH

Start:  Cleveland, OH

Finish: Geneva, OH

Weather:  70 degrees, sun with clouds

Miles:  64

Distance to date: 2,324

Today was gentle riding along small roads as I followed the Coastal Erie Scenic Trail from Cleveland east.  Using US 20 as a base, the route goes up and along the lake, then retreats back where marshes or inlets interfere.  I rode 64 miles and probably advanced half that much, but it was a very pleasant ride.

Lake Erie is tremendous in size, with surf three to four feet high that
comes crashing against the rocky shore.  There was only one place of sandy beach, Headlands State Park, where I put my feet in the water. Not as cold as the ocean in New England, but refreshing nonetheless.  The coast is well developed but not affluent like the New England coastline.  Modest ranches right up to the water, as if it were immaterial whether people had the view or not.  It smelled like the ocean, except for the lack of salt, and reminded me of the inlets I grew up around in New Jersey.  I loved the town of Fairport Harbor, which
stuck out on a peninsula in the lake, and Madison as well, where I had
lunch.  I was hoping for some fish, but the only restaurant was Mexican.

I was happy to come upon Betty’s motel, a sweet place with four rooms lined up behind a house along the highway; much more upstanding than the permissive Cleveland Motel.  I had the end room, and the night was so clear I went to sleep with the curtains open, communing with the stars.

Lighthouse at Headlands State Park, Ohio

Start:  Massillon, OH

Finish: Cleveland, OH

Weather:  80 degrees, thunderstorms

Miles:  78

Distance to date: 2,260

I woke to thunderstorms, so took advantage of the hot breakfast at Hampton Inn; I do love that waffle flipping machine. By the time I was finished the thunder had stopped, though the sky was still grey.  The forecast was for thunderstorms on and off all day, and I knew the bike trail to Cleveland was erratically paved, so I had mapped out both a trail route and road route.  I started on the trail, but after being caught in a shower, I switched to the road at the first town, Canal Fulton.  This proved a good move, as the old highway between Massillon and Cleveland is straight and nearly empty on a Sunday morning.  I made excellent time, arriving in Cleveland just after noon.  I got back on the trail just before the I-490 loop, so I followed the bike trail instead of most of the busy streets, but the trial ended and I got tossed on to Independence Avenue, high above the city.

Just as I arrived in Cleveland, developing thunderstorms turned the sky over the lake soot grey. In the foreground was one of the most intricate industrial landscapes I have ever witnessed, a labyrinth of mills, overhead pipelines, railroad bridges, highway overpasses and conveyors.  The outlines of the skyscrapers rose behind the industry, one shade darker than the menacing clouds, looming warriors marching out of the fog.  It was an unworldly vision scripted from a comic book.

I pedaled towards the storm and when it hit, which it did with vengeance, I took shelter under an overpass.  After twenty
minutes or so it passed and I continued on.  By the time I got downtown, after dodging more Interstate exits than I could count, the weather was fine.

Cleveland is a big city that has been chopped up so badly by railroads and highways that all that remain are fragments.  Euclid Avenue has hotels and theaters and restaurants, and the surrounding streets have office towers, but the urban scape is a cramped strip between two highways.  I went to the Rock’n’Roll Hall of Fame, more to see the IM Pei building than the exhibits.  It felt dated to me, yet another one of his buildings
with a triangular atrium, a circular plaza and a protruding cube where the visitors are escalatored underground to the exhibits.  He was a wrong choice to design this building, which should be more free spirited.

The really interesting part of the day happened after lunch, as I wound my way out of the city going generally east, but weaving in and out to capture the fabric of the place.  I wanted to come to Cleveland after reading an extensive NY Times article about the city a year or so ago.  The article outlined the trauma of the city, the shuttered buildings, the empty lots, the trials of the government to simply keep abreast of the arson and theft, and the crazy land schemes reminiscent of  old Florida, where Cleveland houses are sold online to unsuspecting buyers for as little as $1500.  I wanted to see for myself if the article rang true.

Yes, it did.  Cleveland is a shambles that defies a solution. Yet, in my afternoon of wheeling through the streets, I came away with more optimism than despair.  Nearly every block has vacant lots, most have boarded up buildings, and some streets are entirely boarded or burned.

There are areas with massive public infusion of money, notably the Euclid Street Corridor which is being revamped for miles.
But what is far more interesting is what is being done in small ways, a renovation here, a new building there, things that may benefit from public support but are clearly private endeavors.
My favorite intersection in the city is the corner of E 66 and Hough Street.  One corner is an empty parking lot with a Navy recruitment billboard. The opposite corner is a vacant single
story brick storefront.  The third corner is an urban garden with grapevine trellises in neat rows, and the fourth corner is a new house, 2,500 square feet or more, two car garage, brick with tall
entry and professional landscaping.  No urban planner in her wildest dreams would conceive such a combination, yet there it was, and other corners were similarly unique and robust.

Cleveland is oozing infrastructure.  There are so many streets, so many buildings, so many services, so much untapped potential; it would take years for it to be fully utilized again, if ever.  So it is redefining itself in a haphazard, barely urban way that in time will have its own quirky charm.  Cleveland is definitely down, but it is not out.

Heading east on Euclid, which is US 6 and US 20, I came upon old fashioned roadside motels.  The first few I passed were too derelict even for my open-ended tastes, but the Cleveland Motel was bright and clean.  Only after I was in my room did I realize the ceiling was mirrored and there was a sign on the TV describing the porn channels.  The ladies of the late afternoon whom I met when I went out for a walk were respectful but bemused by the cyclist in their midst.

Cleveland Humor – Claus Oldenburg Scrulpture in City Hall Park

Start:  Mount Vernon, OH

Finish: Massillon, OH

Weather:  80 degrees, sunny

Miles:  76

Distance to date: 2,182

The day started out sketchy and ended sublime.  I could not find the bike path leading from Mount Vernon and spent the
first ten miles or so on US 36, the worst road of my entire ride.  It was narrow, pock-mocked and steep.  Across one rise a fog set in and visibility was terrible, so I rode with extreme care.  Fortunately there was little traffic on a Saturday morning, but I was glad to arrive at Howard, where I found the trail and had a few quiet miles.  The trail ended in Danville where I met a couple of enthusiastic cyclists out on a day ride.

I rode on US 62 for about twenty miles; it felt close to home to be on a numbered highway that goes all the way to Massachusetts.
The terrain was rolling, and there were Amish influences all around, barns and buggies and huge white farm houses.  I passed the longest covered bridge in Ohio, which goes over a railroad and will eventually be part of the bike trail.

Lunch in Millersburg was terrific – pulled pork on a baked pretzel with onion rings.  The pretzel made great bread and was wicked filling.  After lunch I picked up the trail again, and the next ten miles were the most interesting yet.  From Millersburg to Fredericksburg the trail is about 14 feet wide, has a dotted line, and is shared between cyclists and Amish horse drawn wagons.  For the next hour I was the only cyclist in tights and a helmet, the Amish women cycle in their long dresses and small bonnets, the men in their wool pants and straw hats.  Each person was reserved but
shared a greeting.  Fredericksburg, the end of the trail, is a very Amish town.  Every mailbox is either Hostettler or Yoder.

I had not seen Amish since I was a child, and noticed some ways in which they appear to be more connected with the wider world.  I saw a number of Amish women driving cars (all mini-vans), though no Amish men.  They tend their fields with horses instead of tractors, but use a number of machines in their farming.  I was most amused to see a long line of Amish standing outside the Pizza Hut in Millersburg right at 11 am.  They must really like the lunch buffet.

Amish houses are huge, their farms immaculate, the country side gorgeous.  I couldn’t help but compare to the farms I saw in Missouri, which were so much less kept but swimming in stuff.

Another hilly fifteen miles and I landed in Naverre, where I picked up the Towpath Trail, which follows the old Ohio to Erie Canal.  It was hard pack rather than paved, but since I didn’t know how else to get to Massillon I followed it, which was worth the effort.  The abandoned canal is swampy, the towpath winds through dense growth, and it is virtually empty.

I arrived in Massillon to find that two of the three hotels had closed, so I violated my own hundred dollar limit rule and paid a whopping $114 a night to stay at the Hampton Inn.  It has all the
right amenities, but I feel like I am on a business trip.  Blech!

Dinner was a great salad bar and chili at a local place.  The best thing about it was the soundtrack – vintage 60’s songs playing nonstop through dinner.  Remember these?  These Boots are Made for Walking… Hey, I Got You Babe… You Just Keep Me Hanging On… Everyone’s Gone to the Moon… They all play on Saturday night in Massillon.

Amish Buggy on the Trail outside Fredericksburg, OH

Start:  Columbus, OH

Finish: Muont Vernon, OH

Weather:  80 degrees, sunny

Miles: 62

Distance to date: 2,106

I got up this morning and was fortified by donuts at my continental breakfast.  My first donuts of the trip.  Actually, my first donuts in about five years.  Fortified by all that is bad for me, I rode into Columbus.  It was a remarkable experience because I had passed many of the areas yesterday in the car with Ken Stevens, and I was once again struck by how different things look from a bicycle.  You see the street you are on,
but also the side streets; you see all the signs and get a better sense of scale.  As I approached downtown I spent some time looking at their really unusual train station, sort of Egyptian windmill style,
and revisited the State Capitol, which I liked so much yesterday.  Then I headed out on the bike path along the Scotio River.

Oops, that one ran out and ended.  I pedaled over to the Oligrachy River path.  Oops, construction.  I pedaled over to the Alum Creek Path.  Oops, more construction.  Guess it is fair to say the bike paths through Columbus are still a work in progress, but no matter.  Like all good Midwestern cities, it is a gird of north/south and east/west streets, so I wound my way from the southwest to the northeast and about 20 miles later crossed I-270 and was out
of the urban area.  Along one bike path detour I came upon a high school band group practicing their routine in a parking lot.  Great fun to watch.  Ohio State has a very famous band, and I understand
that bands are big all over this area. These kids were very serious in their maneuvers.

I headed north and east and hit bike paths about half the time, and roads about half the time.  The unfinished paths are under construction, so this is a very real project to connect Cincinnati and
Cleveland. Guess I’ll just have to come back when it is all done…

Ohio has very patriotic and basic names.  Today I left Columbus for Mount Vernon. I have been in Madison, Franklin, Knox, Jefferson, and Monroe counties.  Along that line, I stopped for lunch in Centerburg, which, you might guess, is the geographic center of Ohio.  I had incredible meatloaf with a huge warm roll, cottage cheese and salad.  The waitress, who had enough attitude to get
a job at Durgin Park in Boston, looked at me crooked when I ordered those sides.  “Don’t you want mac’n’cheese?”  I figured, with meatloaf and gravy and a roll, there is a limit to the carbs I need.

Mount Vernon is a lovely town with a great square and I am staying at a hotel right on the square. I always enjoy it when I am away from the highways.  No Internet access, but the good folks at the YMCA let me use their lobby to post this.  Ohio specializes in people who are blond and friendly.

Old Railroad Mile Marker along a Bike Trail

Start:  Yellow Springs, OH

Finish: Columbus, OH

Weather:  90 degrees, sunny

Miles:  59

Distance to date: 2044

I rolled over 2,000 miles today, as I continued to tour along bike path heaven.  My sweet little motel in Yellow Springs had breakfast baskets, so I wolfed down
bananas, crumb cakes and orange juice and hit the trails in the early morning
sunlight.  It was a dozen miles or so to
Cedarville, a tidy little town that seemed the antithesis of Yellow Springs, with a Christian College in lieu of Antioch.

The Ohio to Erie bike trail system through Ohio is about 80% complete, and the portion towards Columbus went even further than my map indicated, but eventually the good thing ended, though construction on the next phase was evident.  I met a great pair of volunteers along the path who were cleaning debris and cutting up fallen limbs along the trail.  One had made a 3,500
miles trek from Seattle to DC about ten years ago, the other is about to embark on an 11 state journey with his bike hooked to his car, which he rides on completed rail trails.  No sooner did I get off the trail than I ran into another local cyclist who was rich in stories
from the trail.  Ohioans love their bikes!

I hopped on US 40, the National Road, and even that had a bike lane right into Columbus.  I found a very serviceable hotel and was settled by 1 pm.

I had a fascinating tour this afternoon.  Ken Stevens, a local radio newscaster in Columbus (he is my brother-in-law’s brother) has been following this blog and when he realized I was coming through Columbus, asked me if I would do a radio interview with him.  Ken picked me up, took me to the Clear Channel studios in Columbus, and gave me a terrific tour of how radio works today, which like everything else involves more and more technology with fewer and fewer staff.  He interviewed me for a feature spot that may air tomorrow or Saturday.  It was great to see Ken after too many years, and fun to be interviewed.

Afterwards Ken took me on a quick tour around Ohio State University campus, which is as enormous as I expected, and through the main downtown areas.  Most striking is that the Ohio Statehouse, a well-proportioned Greek Revival building, has a flat roofed drum instead of the more traditional dome capping the building.  It is quite handsome once you get used to the dome one expects being absent.

My thanks for the volunteers of the Ohio to Erie Bike Trail System

Start:  Loveland, OH

Finish: Yellow Springs, OH

Weather:  90 degrees, sunny

Miles:  56

Distance to date: 1985

Today was touring cycle nirvana along the bike trail trial in Ohio.  No trucks, no traffic, the sun filtered through the trees, the gentle slope up as I followed the Little Miami River north.  The trail is beautifully
maintained, the trailheads have bathrooms and there is good food and services all along the way.

I cleaned up after my camping last night at the facilities at the Loveland Trailhead and was on the trail by 6:30 am.  I stopped
in Morrow for a great breakfast, then on to Xenia which is touring cycle Mecca.  Four different rail trails meet in Xenia, the town has bicycles everywhere.  I enjoyed a great lunch of barbeque and spent the afternoon in the Library mapping my route through Ohio to avoid being without a hotel again. (Once was fine, but I don’t need to make a regular thing of it).  There is this concept of an Ohio to Erie bike trail that will connect Cincinnati to Cleveland, but it is not finished yet, so I had to understand the gaps.  It is all well documented online, but there are no printed maps of the entire route, which is frustrating for us old school guys who want a piece of paper in our hands when we come to the intersection of four cornfields and want to know which way to go.

After I planned my future, I biked up to Yellow Springs, counter culture haven and home to Antioch College (which went belly up and is now reformulating itself).  I enjoyed dinner at a street café chatting with other guys. There are probably three times as many bicycles as cars in Yellow Springs.  Bikes rule.

I am staying at the most perfect roadside place, Springs Motel, a mile south of town.  Twelve rooms, each with a little rocker in front. As I type I am rocking and watching the sun set on the field
across the road.  My neighbors come and go, we chit chat, exchange our stories of the road.  When do you ever meet your neighbor at the Holiday Inn?

Springs Motel  Yellow Springs, OH

Start:  Markland, IN

Finish: Loveland, OH

Weather:  90 degrees, sunny

Miles:  80

Distance to date: 1929

I always knew that one day my refusal to make reservations for motels in advance
would catch up with me – and today was the day.  Fortunately I could not have better conditions for sleeping under the
stars.  The sky is clear, it is about 75
degrees, there is a light breeze off the Little Miami River running along my side, I am safe off any roads on the Little Miami Bike Trail, have a charming gazebo to sleep under, and water and bathroom facilities at the nearby Loveland
Trailhead.

Today was chore day.  I had to get to Cincinnati, get Ohio travel information, get my bike tire situation fixed, plan my Ohio stops, and prepare to go on the Little Miami Bike Trail.  Like chore days at home, the day felt scheduled, but aside from not finding a room at an inn, I got everything done.

Morning brought a blanket of fog over the Ohio, so figuring I had at most 50 miles today (NOT!), I lolled around and left after 9 am, took the bridge from Indiana over to Kentucky, and headed up US 42.  The ride along the river was gorgeous.  Even though they are separated by only a strip of water, Kentucky is different from Indiana, more Southern, more spacious.  The corn is superseded by tobacco, the houses along the river are manorly, the town squares genteel clapboard or painted brick instead of rusticated stone.

When the road headed inland I hit serious hills.  After the cushy terrain of Illinois and Indiana, going two miles up and up and up winded me, but felt good on the legs.  I didn’t have a Kentucky map, but had carefully written MapQuest directions.  Still, I took a right turn too early and wound up adding six miles to my trip.
Eventually I got back on track and descended into Covington.

Approaching Covington, KY from a distance and absorbing it slowly is a textbook example of how American cities evolve.  Far out there are huge acreages with looming houses.  Then I hit the towns without centers, the places defined by their highway intersections and collections of big box stores.  These give way to lower middle class development, rows of identical starter homes. Outside of Covington, $120,000 is the starting price for a two story square house with a two car garage, probably 2,000 sf total.  Moving towards the center I came upon the older suburbs, leafy green, larger houses, better proportions, with quaint shopping areas, established churches, immense schools.  Then I came down a sharp hill into Covington proper and the scale changed again. Two and three story brick buildings sit tight to the street, built from the early 1800’s right into the 1930’s, many still boasting articulated cornices and other fine details but now all in disrepair, if occupied at all.  Block after block of potential abandoned.  Finally, I came to the river where urban renewal paid a call.  The narrow streets open into wide expanses of concrete with unrelated buildings plopped along the river. Marriott’s and office towers and a fascinating sail shaped condo building all of which turn their back on Covington to address the view of Cincinnati.  It is a jarring progression, yet similar to that repeated in city after city.

In one of those ugly office towers facing the river I got Kentucky and Ohio travel information. Those states should learn a thing or two from Oklahoma and Colorado – states that are terrific with their information. With a middling map of Cincinnati and a torn out centerfold of the state of Ohio I crossed the incredible Roebling Bridge (predecessor of the more famous Brooklyn Bridge) and
crossed into Cincinnati.

Ohio gets high marks for Historical Markers, and I learned quite a bit about Cincinnati.  I had no idea the city had such a strong German heritage. Catholics were not even allowed within the city
limits for many years.  During the anti-German fervor of World War I the city changed hundreds of street names to remove the German references.

Cincinnati feels big.  It has muscular square blocks of stone buildings, a pair of gigantic stadiums flanking the skyline, followed by blocks upon blocks of flats, some of which are being spruced up, many of which are not.  I found my way to Campus Cycles
adjacent to the University of Cincinnati campus, and the guys there did a terrific job tending to my bike, repairing the tire problem and changing out my chain.  I left happy and headed towards
the bike trail with great hopes of finding a hotel along the way, but no luck.  My maps led astray more than helped, so I gave up relying on them and enjoyed rolling through a new city on a fine day. I
wheeled in a south and east sort of direction and eventually came to the start of the bike trail.

The Little Miami Bike Trail is one of the oldest and one of the longest paved trails in the country.  It is in terrific condition with well-tended trailheads and mowed side strips.  I did about fifteen miles before stopping; though it is so easy to ride on I could have pedaled longer.  In the evening there are a good number of cyclists, runners and walkers along the trail.  The trailhead at Loveland is a perfect place to camp, and I will be right on my route in the morning!

PS – Yes, there was an amazing buffet at the BelTerra casino in Markland, IN last night.  All told, I took six plates of food.  I could tell you that each plate was modest, but it still added up to quite a lot. My dessert plate was particularly colorful!

Dusk on the Little Miami BIke Trail