October 23, 2015 – Sun, 70 degrees

Miles Today: 66

Miles to Date: 8,904

States to Date: 25

 Warmshowers superhost Murdock is a San Francisco 49’rs superfan, so even though the Seahawks trounced the 49’rs Thursday night, I still woke up more sports paraphernalia than I’ve even seen. Murdock lived up to his reputation by fueling me with waffles topped with ice cream and real maple syrup for breakfast. I pedaled mighty well on that combo.

The first portion of my day was more Big Sur terrain – incredible hills cut into the coast with occasional exclusive estates hanging over the sea. At one vista a guy hovering on the guard rail exclaimed, “You never get tired of this.”  Which is true.  Watching the waves is mesmerizing and majestic.

The world leveled out into a broad coastal plane where the cycling was easy and the ocean gorgeous. Crowds of elephant seals sunned themselves on the sand, and a few splashed in the water.

I stopped in Cambria for lunch – the burrito at Sandy’s Deli is very good. South of town California One pulls away from shore, and the landscape reverts to California’s trademark bald brown hills.

I fell in love with the beach town Cayucos, and not just because it’s home of the Brown Sugar Butter Cookie, though that would be reason enough. Cayucos is funky and friendly and the air’s a perfect mix of sun and sea. Besides, the local church touts noteworthy messages.

Morro Bay, just down the road, is larger and less charming. Highway One turns into a freeway and I felt the first surge of Southern California speed. Fortunately, I turned away from the highway to my host’s home in Los Osos and witnessed a dramatic sunset over the marshes.