Bike Trip Day 17 – 8/5/11 – Bristow, OK to Claremore, OK

Start:  Bristow, OK

Finish: Claremore, OK

Weather:  110 degrees, sunny

Bike Time: 6.5 hours

Miles:  71

Distance to date: 1,061

When the sun came up this morning it was a fireball, not a cloud in the sky; 95 degrees by 9:00 am, 110 degrees before noon.  Fortunately, I planned an easier day and rolled into a cool motel with a pool by 2:00 pm. I took a long swim and have spent the rest of the afternoon charting the next week’s route – it is a challenge to find a bike friendly path that is not on Interstates.

I left my cell phone charger in some hotel, so I took advantage of going through Tulsa to get off Route 66 and visit to a Verizon store for a new charger.  Once off the route, I took the bike path along the Arkansas River for several miles, wandered through the neighborhoods, dropped by the Philbrook Museum, and generally soaked in a bit of Tulsa.  It is a beautiful, shady city.

I reunited with 66 on the east side of town and had a wonderful ten miles heading east on 11th Street.  Officially I was still in the City of Tulsa, but it was beautiful ranch land.  Then I headed northeast to Claremore along a highway that had a great shoulder and also had a series of terrific bridges.

I have hit the 1,000 mile mark but my expensive leather bicycle saddle has still not worn into a comfortable seat. I have used up all the saddle soap that was supposed to make it soft, but my butt is still sore, so I picked up more saddle soap and some cream for me.  Already it feels a bit better.

I am in the land of Will Rogers.  So far, I haven’t met a man here that I didn’t like.

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Bike Trip Day 16 – 8/4/11 – OKC, OK to Bristow, OK

Start:  Oklahoma City, OK

Finish: Bristow, OK

Weather:  105 degrees, sunny

Bike Time: 8 hours

Miles:  76

Distance to date: 990

A completely different period of history filled todays’ travel – the 1930’s through the 1950’s.

I left Kenyon and Kay’s at 6:30 am when the morning sky turned light but before the sun had risen.  The eastern sky was blanketed in clouds and for the first few hours I enjoyed cloud cover and only double digit temperatures.  I wound my way along section roads (Oklahoma has a north/south road and an east/ west road every mile.  These are referred to as section roads, and they define a square mile, 640 acres.  Homesteaders received a quarter section, or 160 acres.  Although the section roads are sometimes interrupted for features like lakes, in general one can zigzag through Oklahoma
easily on section roads).  After a few miles I hit OK66, the former US Route 66.

Oklahoma has made a tourist attraction out of Route 66.
They have built three museums about its lore across the state, developed many roadside markers, and printed a picture book about traveling the road, all of which added up to a day of many, many stops for this intrepid cyclist.  Today I saw the awesome Pops gas station and soda fountain in Arcadia, a recent tribute to roadside architecture very well done, the famous round barn in Arcadia, the phenomenal motorcycle museum in Warwick, the Interpretive Center in Chandler, and numerous vintage gas stations, some intact, others in ruins, each with descriptions of events both legal and illicit that went on along the road.

I had a tremendous breakfast in Luther, at which I added my last carbo-charged Oklahoma food – biscuits and gravy.  It stuck to my ribs so tight I rode 50 more miles before I felt even a tincture of hunger.

Since Route 66 is shadowed by I-44 the whole way, there is very little traffic on the road, and the traffic is polite to slow moving vehicles.  This is good because much of the road has
zero shoulder, and cars have to go into the opposing lane to pass me. However, since the whole point of this road is not to go 65 mph, no one minded a bit.

I got a blow out about 60 miles into my day.  It is only my second flat of the trip, but I gained new appreciation for my bike, since this was a sudden puncture and could have sent me spinning, but the heavy, stable Surly took it in stride.

One interesting aspect of travelling on Route 66 is that many of the people traversing the full route from Chicago to LA, are European.  I met a couple from Denmark at the Chandler
Museum who were taking two weeks to drive the entire route.  They had Route 66 shirts and caps and were consumed by the mythology of the road.  Later I met a motorcycle troupe of at least eight people, all from Germany, who were also tracing the entire road. I suppose the road fulfills a foreign notion of something distinctly American.

A second observation, which is less engaging, is that most everything about the road that was so rich, the motels, the swimming pools, the roadside cafes, the neon signs, the drive-thrus, are gone.  I anticipated that Route 66 would have a roadside motel every few miles, and indeed the remains of them are there, but I passed only one functioning cabin
court; everything else had either been turned into low rent apartments or was simply abandoned. I had to ride much further than I hoped to find a place to stay, and where I am is at a newer motel at an I-44 interchange rather than a vintage Route 66 venue.

Route 66 may be a legend, but it is not a living legend.

Pops Station and Soda Fountain, Arcadia, OK

Motorcycle Museum in vintage Gas Station, Warwick, OK

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Bike Trip Day 15 – 8/3/11 – OKC. OK

Start:  Oklahoma City, OK

Finish: Oklahoma City, OK

Weather:  105 degrees, sunny

Bike Time: 1.5hours

Miles:  14

Distance to date: 914

Today was a superb day for visiting.  After a leisurely morning Jeff, Jamie and I went to lunch at Chili’s and spent two hours discussing all matters great and small. I am pretty sure that we righted all the wrongs of the world several times, which is always gratifying. I left their place late afternoon to ride over to Kenyon and Kay Morgan’s home in Northeast OKC.  I worked for Kenyon when I first got out of school, 30 years ago, and we have kept in touch since.

OKC is so large that crossing town can put you in a completely different microclimate.  The west side of the city, where all of my family lives, is high, dry and flat.  People have introduced many trees, but few are native.  As soon as you cross Santa Fe (the East/West division street) the landscape begins to roll and there are more natural trees.  By the time you get to Oakmont, five miles east of Santa Fe, the land is almost forested.  It is usually about five degrees cooler on
the east side of town.  Historically Northeast OKC has been the black side of town, so despite the beautiful landscape, cooler
breezes, and even better highway connections, it is much less developed than the west side.

Kenyon and Kay had an incredible dinner prepared for me when I arrived.  We had a great evening catching up on our
work and our families, and I camped out overnight in one of their girl’s rooms – all three of whom are now grown and moved away.

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Bike Trip Day 13 – 8/1/11 – Watonga, OK to OKC, OK

Start:  Watonga OK

Finish: Oklahoma City, OK

Weather:  105 degrees, sunny

Bike Time: 6 hours

Miles:  66

Distance to date: 900

Contrived, yet true, my odometer turned over 900 miles as I entered my nephew’s Jeff’s driveway in Oklahoma City.  I have finished the first third of my trip – now for a few days of family fun.

Today I spent most of my ride contemplating cows.  Have
I been in Oklahoma too long already?  Every cow that I pass stops grazing and looks at me. Groups of cows all stop and look.
Cars whiz by ahead of me and the cows are unperturbed, yet they all lift their heads for the bicycle.  I do not believe I possess any cow attracting pheromones, but a quick Internet search reveals that cows have reasonable hearing and very good eyesight, so there is something they either hear or see about the bike that attracts them.  I am glad that I offer a distraction, their lives seem awfully monotonous, and it always feels nice to be noticed, if only by cows.

I was happy to leave dusty, swimmingpoolless, Internetless Watonga in early dawn light and strike east to Kingfisher on a stunning morning.  There was a bright golden haze on the meadow, and, well, you show tune types know the rest of the soundtrack, which I hummed or whistled or sang outright across some of the most beautiful land ever conceived; wheat in the breeze, rows of north bending trees between the fields,
distant cottonwoods in the creek beds, night’s coolness lingering over the land.

Route 33 turned out to be a minefield of Historical Markers, and of course I was compelled to stop at them all.  Turns out
this road parallels the northern edge of two separate Oklahoma land runs – the big one of 1889 and a smaller one in 1892, each of which used 98 degrees longitude as an east/west divider.  This got me thinking about cartography.  Dodge City, KS had many references to the 100 degree longitude line that runs right through that town and was an early border during the colonial settlement.  The term ‘100 degrees longitude’’ made no sense
before the establishment of the prime Meridian in Greenwich, England, which was not until 1674, well after initial European exploration of the Southwest.  By the time of the Oklahoma land runs, the meridians were well established, but it still baffles me how a reference point half way around the world was the basis for establishing boundaries between territories.  One marker states that “settlers lined up along the 98th parallel before the land run”. I can’t help but wonder, who knew where that was?

After another incredible breakfast, this one at the City Cafe in Kingfisher, I emerged into the heat of 9:30 am and was hot and heavy breathing for the next 40 miles while the farms yielded to subdivision, the blacktop shoulders developed concrete curbs, and I was in the city.

Jeff and Jamie moved to a new house a year ago, a classic OKC ranch of the 1960’s era with sunken living room big enough for two sofas, a ping pong table, a piano and a trap set, indoor garden/fountain, wings of bedrooms, media room with 144” TV (I kid you not), three tier deck overlooking a pond, and an immense central kitchen where 16 of us all feasted on a taco spread.  It is great to see everyone again, and to be back in Oklahoma.  It feels like home, even though it is nothing like New England.

Cows are my biggest fans.

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Beyond The Final Frontier

When Star Trek announced that Space was the Final Frontier, it rang cool.  It also rang true.  Spending time in the mountains of Colorado, a place that was frontier little more than a century ago, makes me wonder what
frontiers still exist for us, and why frontiers are important.

We have allowed space as a frontier to drizzle away.  We did the man on the moon thing, got a space station up and running on
a super subsidized basis, had a few well-heeled private space travelers, but in terms of a Star Trek level of imagining, we have let space slip away.

In nineteenth century Colorado, it was not the sky that was the limit, it was the land.  Conquering the mountains and enduring the hardships to tap their hidden resources was a feat of economic gambling, engineering savvy and brute strength.
Men came in search of gold, and found some, but mostly they found silver, iron, copper and molybdenum.
They figured how to extract the metals from inhospitable places.  They dug the mines, built towns for miners, laid
railroads to transport the goods, and when the veins of ore ran dry in one place, they moved everything to new locations.
The main highway through Climax, CO, which goes over Freemont Pass, was relocated five times as engineers mapped the shift in molybdenum deposits.   Dillon, CO moved four times, first to accommodate railroads, and later, for water.

Colorado’s early economy, based on pulling precious stuff from the ground, led to a cycle of boom and bust that reflected patterns that existed throughout the United States during the 1800’s, when the role of government was more limited and our
systems of banking and trade were still being formulated.  However, even during periods of bust there was an understanding that it was only temporary; another opportunity would reveal itself, around the mountain as it were, and another boom would explode.  Americans had good cause to be optimistic; the frontier was inexhaustible.

The idea of the frontier shifted in the twentieth century.  In World War I we flexed the muscles that made America strong to influence Europe, by the 1920’s Wall Street became wild as any Old West Town, but the when the ultimate bust of The Great Depression resulted, we introduced safety nets.  The very term ‘social security’ is anathema to a frontier mentality.  Yet, when we conquered the nuclear frontier and emerged from World War II as the dominant super power, we thought we could have it both ways –unbridled opportunity for the risk takers without the downside of real losers.  By the 1950’s we had run out of land to expand into, so we developed a consumer model of expansion. Automobiles and suburban development and Interstate highways fed on each other, Americans consumed more stuff.  We couldn’t push further west so we made more, wanted more, and pumped it all up –
bigger cars, bigger houses, bigger yards.

This is the economy of the Colorado mountains now – an economy of ski resorts and second homes.  The boom of the 1990’s and 2000’s in Colorado tourism puts all previous booms to shame.  The mountains are brimming with picturesque
wooden villas available for weekly rental; the local population makes a better livelihood catering to the whims of the well-heeled visitors then they ever did mining ore.

There is nothing wrong with skiing down the side of a mountain that trappers used to scale with picks or bicycling along a path that railroads used to haul minerals.  At one level it is a testament to our complete conquest of the mountains that now we use them for play.  But frolicking in the mountains is not the same as mastering them.  Mastering is the
skill we hone on a frontier, a skill I believe is essential to the integrity of everyone who strives in life.

So, what frontiers do we have left?  We know the standard answers – energy sustainability, economic opportunity, information capability, biomedical advances, virtual reality, robotics, even quarks. Having reached the limits of our physical world, the new frontiers are social and intellectual and,
frankly, they lack the collective wow factor that engage souls. Our future is portrayed as collaborative teams working the edges of systems already in place.  Improving margins without upsetting anything fundamental.  This is all necessary work on a planet that is fully explored and has six billion mouths to feed.  Yet, a future of renovating This Old House lacks the wow of building your own dream house.

The cool thing about people is, once our bellies are full, we are not satisfied.  We are wired to create, to invent, to explore.  The drive to push our limits differentiates us from other species.  Sure, some people are placated by passive entertainment, or the
simulation of Disneyworld, or the physical rush of downhill skiing.  But I maintain there is a core group of people for whom entertainment is insufficient.  They want to push the next frontier.

What we need is a way to synthesize the opportunities of the intellectual and social frontiers budding around us into a singular vision with the commanding strength of “Go West, Young Man.”  Space cannot be the final frontier, because conquering new frontiers is an elemental aspect of our humanness.  Right now we have a plethora of frontier opportunities, and while it is possible to have multiple
frontiers, they lack the clarity of one, bold effort.  I think that having a clearly articulated vision of where we are headed would do wonders to jumpstart the lethargy of this country, as Kennedy did with the space program in the 1960’s.  Being the Awkward Poser I am inclined to see multiple views of any issue, so I doubt I will be the one to name the frontier that
lies beyond space.  I am happy to raise the question – feel free to make suggestions.

 

 

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Bike Trip Day 12 – 7/31/11 – Woodward, OK to Watonga, OK

Start:  Woodward, OK

Finish: Watonga, OK

Weather:  100 degrees, sunny

Bike Time: 7 hours

Miles:  76

Distance to date: 834

This was the most uneventful day of the trip; riding from early morning to early afternoon through the landscape of a Hollywood Western with a mid-morning break for barbeque and a cinnamon bun at the My Way Café in Seiling.  The first half of the ride was glorious, the second half scorching hot.  Every few miles I took a short water break under the scant shade of a roadside tree and coasted on those rare occasions when a cloud threw the blacktop into shade.  Being Sunday morning, I had long stretches without vehicles, just my own quiet on the road.  As I travelled south and more trees appeared the cicadas nesting in them chirped along the breeze.

At one point I stopped at the crest of a rise and looked back towards Woodward.  To my surprise, the wind turbines I passed yesterday were still in full view across the horizon – over 50 miles away!

I arrived in Watonga by two, a dusty oil town without so much as a motel with a pool or Internet access.  But my room at the
Watonga Inn was quiet and cool, so I took comfort in that.  Outside my room is a pair of giant azaleas where more cicadas chant.  First one, then another, building to a shrill cacophony.
It is deafening.  Until, without notice or reason, they fall silent together.  The silence rings louder than the noise, until they start up again.

A few people have asked what I carry.  My organization is simple; I travel lighter than any other touring cyclist I have
met.  I have the two smallest waterproof Arkel saddlebags (aka panniers), which clip on to the heavy rack attached to my rear wheel.

I hang my ‘dry’ pannier on the chain side of the bike. It includes my netbook and mouse and all my clothes – one pair of microfiber pants, one pair of microfiber shorts, one black nylon t-shirt, one Columbia sunshade collar shirt, two pairs of rinsable underwear, and five pair of cycling socks.  I wear my cycling shorts, bright yellow shirt and NewBalance 835’s when I ride, but picked up two additional cycling shirts and a Courage Classic T-shirt in Denver, which I don’t need but carry anyway.  At the top of the pannier, easily accessible, I keep my baseball hat and rain poncho.

My ‘wet’ pannier hangs on the dismount side of my bike, where I can get at it during the day.  This includes four zip lock bags –
one each for toiletries/first aid, snacks, maps, and bike repair items such as tubes, lights, chain lube, patch kit, universal allen wrench, saddle soap and rag.  I also keep two one-liter water
bottles in this pannier plus my book and camera and phone chargers.  I keep my sunscreen and my active state map in the open pocket of this pannier.

The back of every cycling shirt has three pockets.  I keep my wallet, camera, phone, bike lock key, and lip gloss in those
pockets.  I have two more one liter water bottles mounted on my bike, as well as my lock, tire pump, and odometer.

That is all there is to it.

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Bike Trip Day 11 – 7/30/11 – Dodge City, KS to Woodward, OK

Start:  Dodge City, KS

Finish: Woodward, OK

Weather:  102 degrees, sunny

Bike Time: 11 hours

Miles:  111

Distance to date: 758

My third century in four days; I sure will be glad when the motel towns get closer.

Aside from riding a long time, today was a great day.   I left Dodge City at dawn, rolled past the Cargill meat processing plant (where the trucks are labeled ‘Meat Solutions’ which I thought an odd slogan, since Cargill is at the heart of most of our meat problems), the original Fort Dodge and Coronado’s cross (commemorating Coronado’s expedition through the Arkansas River valley in 1541 in search of the riches of  the Querecho civilization, who just turned
out to be the Wichita Indians).  Within a few miles the plateau of the High Plains fell away, as well as the associated irrigation
from the Ogallala Aquiver, leaving the detritus of industrial agriculture, giant sprinklers, feedlots and meat packing plants, behind me.  I was back in rolling terrain with fields of
hay and wheat subject to the vagaries of rainfall; less productive land perhaps, but more beautiful to be sure.

I had 110 miles to go to Woodward, the nearest place I knew had a motel, and 75 miles to Buffalo, OK, where I knew there was a café, so I had four liters of water and a passel of power bars in case nothing else turned up.  Fortunately there was a nice restaurant in Ford, KS so I had a second breakfast early on, just to reinforce the belly.  Good thing I did, because the next food or drink of any kind was 60 miles away, in Buffalo, OK.  The day as warm but the breeze light, no construction due to being Saturday, and I made good time.

Shorty’s Café in Buffalo was worth the journey.  The waitresses
practically swooned on me, filled my empty water bottles and put them in the freezer while I ate, served up a basket of barbeque with smothered onions, fried okra and a warm cinnamon bun for dessert, along with giant mason jars of water and diet coke.  I was fortified for my final 34 miles, which was good because the afternoon winds picked up – straight at
me – and the final third was a grind.

Yesterday I battled winds while following the Santa Fe Trail, and commiserated with the ancient pioneers.  Today my wind experience was all about the future.  Oklahoma, with the oil it has extracted from beneath the surface running thin, has invested big time in wind energy, and there are immense wind farms lining the ridges of northwest Oklahoma.  I watched the farms for over ten miles.  As I approached they grew larger and larger, until I realized there are multiple sizes of turbines lining the ridges, many over 100 feet tall.  The dance of the blades, moving at different rhythms across the land, created mesmerizing patterns.  If the early pioneers became insane from the endless wind, these towering monsters simply induce dizziness.  I took dozens of photos of them, the tall,
stark forms with their industrial grey shadows reminded me of objects in Charles Sheeler paintings, but alas my camera could not capture how they command their bluff.

The turbines are a majestic presence, but unfortunately I could not figure out how to harness them to propel me forward, so I battled the wind with my legs alone and drifted into Woodward around 7:00 pm, tired but glad of my adventure.

Liquid statistic – I consumed 16 ounces of orange juice, 80 ounces of diet coke, and more than 300 ounces of water today.  That is over 3 gallons of fluids!

Signs of where live leads in Buffalo, OK

Turbines along the ridge of the North Canadian River Valley

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Bike Trip Day 10 – 7/29/11 – Garden City, KS to Dodge City, KS

Start:  Garden City, KS

Finish: Dodge City, KS

Weather:  95 degrees, sunny

Bike Time: 6 hours

Miles:  58

Distance to date: 647

Any number of sayings could apply to me today.  ‘Be careful what you wish for.’  ‘The most difficult things are the ones you least expect.’ ‘Some days you’re the windshield, some days you’re the bug.’

I slept in, left late, figured 50 miles to Dodge City would be a breeze.  It turned out to be the most difficult cycling of my trip, except maybe for Vail Pass.  I cruised along the top of the world out of Garden City, an ant scampering on the picnic table of life, flat and broad with food popping up all around me.  The plain hollowed out in a dip and I got sucker punched in the stomach with a headwind that would not quit, and road construction as well.  Twenty miles of grinding pedaling, dancing over the pebbles strewn across the shoulder or shaking like a jack hammer over the scarified pavement.

All ended with sweetness and delight when I hit Cimarron, KS at noon and discovered Clark’s Drug Store, with full soda fountain and cheerful blonde waitresses who insisted on filling my water bottles with ice water.  I had strawberry, the ‘it’ flavor among the toddler set according to my niece Isabel and nephew Owen.

The last eighteen miles to Dodge had no construction, but the brutal wind kept at me.  I arrived at my motel near three, but after a dip in the pool, I felt terrific again.

I rolled back into town for sightseeing.  Dodge City is a small time tourist trap, but great fun. The gun fight reenactment at the Boot Hill Museum is both corny and cool, the extensive exhibits are fun, the character actors really get into their parts.
The rest of Dodge is a dusty Ag town, except for a superb train station turned theater, circa 1890‘s and a gem of a Carnegie Library, now the Dodge City Arts Council Gallery.  I happened
upon a reception with a great show of local artists and live piano performance of a few flawless rags.

So much of the history emphasizes the harsh brutality of the plains, how the endless stretches of land and ceaseless wind drove settlers insane.  The wind is not an obvious threat, like a storm or cold or flood, yet it threatens by being so insidious.  I realized my five hours of pedaling against the behemoth was but a taste of prairie life.

Ice Cream Soda at Clark Drug in Cimarron, KS

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Bike Trip Day 9 – 7/28/11 – Lamar, CO to Garden City, KS

Start:  Lamar, CO

Finish: Garden City, KS

Weather:  90 degrees, overcast

Bike Time: 10 hours

Miles:  112

Distance to date: 589

I am beginning to get the hang of this – travel early, stop often.  Today I logged thirty miles in the cool morning, then stopped for a sumptuous breakfast at Jack and Wanda’s Tasty Café in Holly,
CO.  Unfortunately, I was the only customer, while the convenience store with the Subway across the street was packed with pick-ups.

Soon after breakfast I crossed into Kansas.  The topography always seems to change with the state line, but given that this state line is arbitrary, perhaps it is our preconceptions that color what we experience.  Kansas is still wide open, but more comforting than Colorado, more domestic. The towns are closer together, you are rarely out of range of at least one abode on the horizon, and the grain silos in the distance are reminiscent of the hulking form that Dorothy and crew first glimpse as the Emerald City.

No sooner does Kansas comfort with its hominess than I understand it is an industrial comfort. Colorado had few cows, but the ones it had were grazing on the range. Kansas has huge fields of grain and thousands of cattle, but the beasts are penned in feedlots, great tracks of mud speckled with black and white hides.  The land in Kansas has been tamed at an institutional scale.  Even the underground is controlled; there are pump houses and pipeline valves that sprout in chain link
cages along the highway every few miles, each clicking along as it monitors the flow of oil, natural gas, and whatever else we pulse through the land.

Highway 50 is grand for cycling. The shoulder is a good eight feet wide.  It follows the original Santa Fe Trail, so there are historical markers to boot; each one I visit.  There are places where you still see the ruts of the wagons from over 150 years ago.  The logistics of traversing this land were easy compared to the mountains of Colorado; the perils were other people.  The
Arkansas River, which parallels the route, was the border between the US and Mexico in the early 1800’s, and the Pawnees claimed the whole area, so there were three groups vying for supremacy.

I was lucky to have cloud cover much of the day, cross winds as opposed to head winds (Murphy’s law of bicycles is that you never get tailwinds) and Kansas is famously flat, so the miles passed easily, This was good, because there were a lot of miles before I found a motel on the industrial east side of Garden City.  Actually, Garden City must have been named by
the same bloke who named Greenland because the north side and the west side seem industrial as well.  The city is brown
with fine dust, noisy pick-ups and a slew of Hispanics.  I capitalized on the situation by eating dinner at a former fast food place turned taco /seafood emporium.  The counter waitress spoke no English, the menu had no prices, I ordered the taco/burrito platter with Carnitas. It was immense and incredibly delicious.  It turned out to cost $6.95 plus the cost of a Modelo; a Kansas experience that fell well outside my preconceptions of the place.

Sprinklers ouside of Garden City, KS

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Bike Trip Day 8 – 7/27/11 – Limon, CO to Lamar, CO

Start:  Limon, CO

Finish: Lamar, CO

Weather:  100 degrees, sunny

Bike Time: 10 hours

Miles:  118

Distance to date: 477

There are no hotels between Limon and Lamar, and only one restaurant at a mid-point, so I knew today would be a long slog.   Fortunately, the ride was more downhill than up, and the shoulder along US 287 is terrific for cyclists.  Unfortunately the headwinds from the South beat at me all afternoon and the highway is a major trucking route.

When I pictured this trip in my mind, I always envisioned riding through the High Plains, a landscape I came to love the year I lived in West Texas.  Today, I got a full dose of that landscape, at a pace I had never experienced before.
People drive through the High Plains – fast.  It is vast and slow changing, some would say boring, yet I consider it a subtle space, where small variations reflect important distinctions.  Absorbing it at 12 miles per hour, as opposed to 65, reveals those distinctions.

Limon to Kit Carson, the first 62 miles, was easy. The morning was bright, the sky clear, my only shade came from the passing semis. The landscape gave over from tall grass to scrubby plants, it turned sandy, the horizons extended.

I was really hungry the last ten miles, but was rewarded for not snacking by a terrific chicken fried steak sandwich with fries – my second in two days.  Chicken fried steak has never made it on any menus in New England, but I love it, and since I am cycling like mad, the dilemma of how to work off a piece of steak, breaded and deep fried, then mounted on a bun and surrounded by fries, is really no problem at all.

The moment I stepped out of the restaurant I felt like a scone on the baking sheet of the High Plains – dry and crusty.  The temperature was at least 100 degrees but the humidity had fled for the coast.  It took some time to gather enough speed to
develop a breeze, then the head winds came at me full force and I had more breeze than I could handle.

Now I traversed long stretches of near horizontal land.  I had to stop every few miles to drink, and each time realized how much tiny wild life lives out here.  Once I upset a hoard of grasshoppers that rustled away, another time I set my bike near a swarming colony of red ants.  The Plains look barren, but they
ooze life.

After a three o’clock rest stop at the IGA in Eads and a long chat with the manager who doubles as the bag boy, the environment changed again.  Now there were undercurrents of cool air
accenting the headwinds, and the benevolent puffs of cloud that floated through the noon sky like anime creatures took on swirling shapes, grew wide and dark, the first forms of storm.  By four o’clock the darkest clouds in the distance created funnels of rain with lightening piercing the blurring streaks across the sky.  As yesterday, I was spared the worst of the
storms, but marveled how they formed, struck havoc, and dissipated around me.

I did not arrive in Lamar until after six pm, a bit too much riding for one day, but happy to have had such a complete experience of this land most of us simply whiz by.

Afternoon Thunderstorms Approaching Lamar, CO

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